Traditional culture only enters the human heart, the national character, and the collective memory of all people, is the culture that a nation truly owns. Such a culture must be protected and cherished.
——Feng Jicai
, they believe that ingenuity is the heart, the work is the character, and they will remain unchanged for thousands of years...
, they are meticulously carved, honing their craftsmanship, just to make first-class products...
Representing the temperament of an era, firmness, steadfastness, and excellence...
they have a common name-artisan.
Songyang has been rich in rice since ancient times. It is known as "Chuzhou Granary" and enjoys the reputation of "Songyang Cooked, Chuzhou Foot". The common people have the custom of making (brewing) the "October jar (wine)", but only a few people still vaguely remember that the tenth day of October is the "Wine Making Festival" or "Jiu Xian Festival".
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The history of wine culture in our country can be traced back to the ancient times of the development of human society. In the "Historical Records", there are records of King Zhou "using wine as a pool, hanging meat as a forest" and "for the drink of a long night". The "Book of Songs" also contains a verse of "for this spring wine, use eyebrows to live", different from human beings. The social activities show that the rise of Chinese wine culture has a history of 5,000 years.
has many legends about the origin of winemaking, mainly including:
Yidi winemaking. According to legend, Yidi in Xia Yu period invented wine making. The second century BC history book "Lu Shi Chunqiu" says: "Yidi makes wine". The "Warring States Policy" edited by Liu Xiang in the Han Dynasty further explained: "In the past, the emperor ordered Yidi to make wine and be beautiful, and to enter the Yu, and Yu to drink and enjoy it, saying: "There will be people who drink and die." Shu Yi Di is absolutely necessary for wine.” Xu Shen, a native of the Eastern Han Dynasty, wrote in the "Wine" section of "Shuowen Jiezi", which also recorded that "the ancient Yi Di made wine mash, Yu tasted it and it was beautiful, and then Shu Yi Di" . When he arrived in the Three Kingdoms, the Shu Han scholar Qiao Zhou's "Ancient History Research" also said that "there was wine in ancient times, and Yidi made wine in Yu Shi" and regarded Yidi as the inventor of wine.
Dukang Brewing. believes that Dukang (a native of Xia Dynasty) is the inventor of wine making. "Shuowen Jiezi" also has an entry "Du Kang Zuoqijiu". Dukang's winemaking is also widely circulated among the people. It is especially popularized by Cao Cao's Yuefu poem "Dan Ge Xing". The poem says: "Giveness should be generous, worry and thought are unforgettable, and only Dukang can relieve worries." Here, Dukang It has become synonymous with fine wine, and people regard Dukang as the father of wine making. "Shiben" (a book compiled between the Qin and Han dynasties and the genealogy of ancient emperors) also has the same view.
Apes make wine. Li Rihua of the Ming Dynasty wrote in "Zi Tao Xuan Zhuang Zhuang": "Huangshan has many apes, picking mixed flowers and fruits in the depression in spring and summer, brewing into wine, the aroma is overflowing, and the smell is hundreds of steps. Those who are deep in wild woods may have to drink. It’s not much, too much is to reduce the wine marks. If you feel it, the crowd will serve people, and you will die." "Qing barnyard banknotes · Western Guangdong Ou Ji" also said: "Guangdong West Pingle (Eastern Guangxi) In other provinces, there are many apes in the mountains, who are good at picking hundreds of flowers to make wine. The woodcutter enters the mountain to get the nest. The wine is as many as a few stones, and the wine is delicious and delicious. It is called ape wine." The fruit wine made by natural fermentation of apes, It can be said to be the most primitive and oldest wine.
Huangdi Brewing. The Huangdi Neijing·Suwen written in the Han Dynasty records the scene of Huangdi discussing winemaking with Qi Bo, and the Huangdi Neijing also mentions an ancient wine—liquor, which is sweet made from animal milk. liqueur. The Yellow Emperor is the common ancestor of the Chinese nation, and many inventions and creations appeared during the Yellow Emperor period.
Heaven and earth coexist. The legend of "wine star making wine" has been spread among folks in , who regards wine star as a god, saying that wine is brewed by wine star in the sky. Dou Ge in the Song Dynasty also has such a record in the "Wine Book": "There are wine stars in the sky, and wine is also made, which is in parallel with the world." It means that the origin of winemaking is related to the creation of the universe. According to the "Book of Jin·Astronomy", in the south right corner of Xuanyuan, "the three stars in the south of Xuanyuan are called the wine flag, the wine official's flag is also the main feast." Xuanyuan, the ancient star name in my country, has a total of 17 stars. The wine flag star is just southeast of it. The discovery of Jiuqixing was first seen in the book "Zhou Ji", which has a history of nearly three thousand years.
Although these legends are different, they roughly indicate that winemaking existed as early as the Xia Dynasty or before the Xia Dynasty. On August 23, 1987, "Xinmin Evening News" reported that five-year-old wine-making utensils were discovered in Ju County, Shandong Province. This discovery shows that winemaking in our country has begun at least five years ago, and the origin of winemaking is of course still before that.
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Songyang has a long history of wine making. There are two conditions for wine brewing with grains, one is the development of agriculture, there is enough grain; the other is the development of pottery, there are wine-making vessels. In the last century, the slopes of Yingpanbei in Wayaotou Village, Shuinan, Songyang, the slopes of Zhan'an Mountain in Hetou Village, Yecun Township, Cuohou Mountain on the south side of Tangliao Village, and the small mountain slope at the west end of Dashi Village in Xinxing Town, etc. Agricultural production tools such as willow-shaped stone arrowheads and cylindrical stone cones from the Neolithic Age have been unearthed, as well as a large number of hard pottery pots, pots, and bamboo pots with printed patterns in the Shang Dynasty, as well as original porcelain beans, pots, and statues of various shapes in the Western Zhou Dynasty. In Songyang’s northwestern Pujiang mountain, the remains of rice cultivation civilization more than 8,000 years ago were discovered. Archaeologists have confirmed that Songyang, 10,000 years ago, belongs to the category of cultivated rice. The ancestors of the Songyang people of the late Neolithic age living on the hills along the river in the Songgu Basin already knew how to grow rice. It can be said that during the Xia, Shang and Zhou Dynasties, Songyang had the prerequisites for winemaking.
When there is wine in Songyang, there are few documents. "Tai Ping Guang Ji" contains: "The teacher (Ye Fashan of Tang Dynasty) said: This (Songyang) has a virtuoso who has been hidden in the mountains and forests for a long time. It's all gone, but the look doesn't change." In the Southern Song Dynasty, the Neo-Confucian Xiang Anshi once wrote an article "Original Wine", admonishing children and grandchildren not to make mistakes because of wine. The poetess Zhang Yuniang also celebrated the wine, and wrote the poem "The Women of the Pomegranate Pavilion at Night Drinking" about the drunkenness of the female family members. Red sandalwood smoked treasure tripod, silver candles scattered green smoke. Linglai grows bamboo, and the fragrant wind enters the summer string. Ronaldo is heavy in his sleeves, and the song is passed by the glass. All women dream of spring, double moths lose Cuitian. Yushan can't be pushed down, look at the back of the moon. It shows that during the Tang and Song Dynasties, wine-making and drinking were popular in Songyang, and these poems can be regarded as the earlier literature on wine.
In today's life, wine has penetrated into all aspects of Songyang's social life. From the perspective of human life, there are "birth mother wine", "Sandan wine", "Meeting wine", "Dieyou wine", "Birthday wine", "Liaoding wine", "Wedding wine", "Returning cup wine" and making birthdays The "falling mountain wine" of the house (coffin), the "sacrifice wine" after death, and so on. From the beginning of the year, there are "Lunar New Year Wine", "Chunshe Wine", Dragon Boat Festival "Realgar Wine", Mid-Autumn Festival "Osmanthus Wine", Chongjiu "Juyu Wine", "Chrysanthemum Wine" and "Qiushe Wine" and so on. There are also "wine for apprentices", "wine for masters", "gathering wine", "wine for recognizing relatives (mother, father)", "wine for worship", "farewell wine" and "three bottles of wine", "toast or not eat fine wine", "borrow" "Sorrow is even worse when drinking wine", "a deep feeling is boring" and so on. Whether it is a good event, a happy event, or a funeral or a funeral, it is planned to be a ceremonial gift-giving or sacrificial event, which cannot be separated from wine.
The ancient Chinese grouped the functions of wine into three categories: wine for curing diseases, wine for elderly care, and wine for gifting. For thousands of years, the effects of wine are not limited to these three, at least include: wine to make joy, wine to forget worries, wine to strengthen courage, wine also makes people indulge, degenerate, and hurt the body. In history, many monarchs indulged in wine, causing the disaster of national subjugation.
Xiang Anshi's "Original Wine" says: Only the heavens descended to make this mellow. To care for the sick, to serve the guests...with wine as a meal, every meal must be cooked. Childish imitating old, gui mai trespasses god. The heart clamps the waste of anxiety, the body slows down the work. Karma will never happen, and destruction will never happen. Exhausted among all talents, Yizhi is early... to make this self-entitlement to my descendants. For fear of anger, do not show to outsiders.
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Songyang people make wine called wine. It is mainly made of saccharification starter with the growth of mold as the main microorganism, double fermentation and semi-solid fermentation, and it is made from grain raw materials. Songyang people are accustomed to using the "August Vat" when the eighth lunar month is "new", and more often use the "October Vat" in the October of the lunar calendar. There is a certain reason why
chooses the October lunar month for wine. Songyang is located in the southwestern Zhejiang Province with a humid subtropical monsoon climate. It begins to enter the winter around the "start of winter" and "light snow" in October of the lunar calendar. At this time, the water body is clear and the temperature is low, which can effectively inhibit the breeding of miscellaneous bacteria, ensure the smooth progress of the fermentation, and enable the wine to form a good flavor during the low-temperature and long-term fermentation process. At the same time, in the traditional agricultural society, Songyang has entered the slack period of agriculture, and the people have time and energy to make good wine.
When making wine, choose the best glutinous rice to soak for seven or eight hours, then wash it with water and drain it. Then put it in the steamed rice and cook it, called cooked glutinous rice or steamed glutinous rice.
chooses wine jars according to the amount of glutinous rice, ranging from "thousand catties" to "foot condyle head" (only 30-50 catties of rice), and "tofu cylinder". Before the reform and opening up, you usually use well water to make wine directly; after the reform and opening up, the water quality was contaminated or tap water was installed. First boil the water, then cool it, and then make the wine. This can kill someSubstances such as harmful microorganisms. In plain areas, the ratio of 1 kg of rice to 1.5 kg of water is generally used (in mountainous areas, the ratio of water is 1:2). The amount of water is controlled and poured into the wine tank, and then the cooked glutinous rice is transferred into the wine tank, and then added 1 "liter" (about 8 taels) of red yeast rice per 10 catties, mix well, and cover the jar. After 24 hours, cracks appeared in the glutinous rice, and a wok was used to "rake" it. After that, "rake" once a day and night to remove the glutinous rice and red yeast rice floating on the wine. Until the glutinous rice and red yeast rice are completely "melted" and sink to the bottom of the tank.
The production process of red yeast rice used in wine is also more complicated. Generally, in the rainy season, the indica rice is washed and cooked, mixed with Qu Niang (red yeast rice flour, thickened with red wine), and put in a basket for a period of time. When it’s fully cooked, it’s "washed" in a "pak bucket", dried and then "washed" again, and then "washed" after drying. In this way, the indica rice becomes red yeast rice, which is then dried and stored for later use. Before the rural production responsibility system, the production team collectively made red yeast rice, which was then distributed to members. The masters who make red yeast rice are usually from Qingtian Wenxi or Wencheng and Taishun. Song Yingxing's "Tiangong Kaiwu" detailed the production process of red song. In addition to red, there is also purple koji. However, Songyang people generally make red yeast rice. So the wine is also called red wine. There is no uniform standard when
can drain wine. Mainly rely on the host's experience to judge, the standard is that the wine is not "rough" or "hard" but "soft" and "flexible". Generally, it takes about half a month from cooking glutinous rice to drinking wine. In a year with particularly warm weather, it takes only ten days.
In the past, the wine must be drained after the wine is set up. Spread the tofu bag cloth on the shau-kei stall, drain the wine into the wok, slowly boil the wine (so as not to continue the fungus activity), cool to 40-50 degrees, then scoop it into a wine bottle or wine jar, and wait until it is completely cold. Then tie the mouth with bamboo husks, then seal the mouth with mud, and store it in the corner for many years. Drink as much as you usually drink, and as much as you want to burn; if there is a red-and-white event, the whole altar is cooked with gluten or husk. The drained lees can be distilled to make shochu.
After the reform and opening up, everyone is greedy and comfortable. Buy some red yeast rice. After the wine is set up, it will not "leak" and will not be boiled. After Qingming the next year, the wine quality began to deteriorate.
People from Songyang near Suichang and Shicangyuan take "white rice wine". After the glutinous rice is cooked, it is mixed with "Daqu", which is also called "refining" for a period of time (usually half a month), and then the water is reported, and it takes half a month to clarify the liquor. But this is not Songyang's authentic "home brewing" and "October tank".
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The old folk customs regarded winemaking as a major farming event, and even prudent enough to choose a day for winemaking. To this day, there are still elderly people talking about the quality of wine directly related to the days of winemaking. Based on the dryness of the sky, it can be brewed on every Geng day; it is not brewed on every Xin day; it is brewed on Feng Jia B day, the Japanese foot is wood, and the wine is clear; It belongs to the soil, the wine is muddy; Ren and Kui are brewed on the second day, and the Japanese feet are water, and the wine is light. Every year on the tenth day of October, the Brewing Festival, regardless of the nature of the heavenly stems, is the "Day of Remission" for wine making.
There is a folk legend about the wine festival on the tenth day of October. In the past, there was a daughter-in-law who was smart and kind-hearted, and lived in harmony with her neighbors. Everyone called her a virtuous wife. A god wants to test whether she is really virtuous. One day, the deity turned into a beggar and walked up to the daughter-in-law and begged: "Sister-in-law, do good deeds. Give me something to eat. I have been unable to eat for several days." Without a word, the daughter-in-law went to serve a large bowl of glutinous rice. Give him food. The old beggar ate the fragrant glutinous rice and smiled and said, "Sister-in-law is really good, is this the wine maker? You eat rice but not wine", and he left with a breeze. Afterwards, this daughter-in-law made more wine than ever before, and the wine had a strong taste. It was the tenth day of the tenth day of the lunar calendar. People spread that on the tenth day of the tenth day, there was a wine fairy descending from the sky. Since then, people have to choose this day for wine making, and gradually become a custom, and the tenth day of October is designated as the "Wine Making Festival."
Songyang people choose not only the October of the lunar calendar, but also some customs and taboos.
In the past, people in Songyang used to give a bowl of glutinous rice to their neighbors to taste when they served glutinous rice. A spoonful of sugar is the filling. Songyang's native dialect "serves one line per line, glutinous rice mixed with sugar", is as perfect as "Tianluosi with light pie filling, slamming can't be born". When you are polite, the host will say, "The glutinous rice is soaked and the wine is still there." Because the water used for the wine has been "reported" in proportion, how much glutinous rice is,Does not affect the output.
"Pastoral Songyang" series of books "Songyang Stories·Songs·Proverbs Volume" also tells a mythical story. It is said that there was a bachelor in the past. He heard that someone served glutinous rice with wine, so he went to someone’s house to eat glutinous rice. He even said, "The glutinous rice slams and the wine is still there", the villagers hate him. Once, the bachelor prepared the wine by himself. When the glutinous rice was cooked, the whole village came to the glutinous rice, and everyone said, "The glutinous rice is whipped, and the wine is still there." After a while, only a fist-sized rice ball was left. Coincidentally, a beggar came at this time, and the bachelor simply gave the last ball of rice to the beggar. When the beggar was about to bask in glutinous rice, everyone laughed. The beggar asked the reason and found out what was going on, so he just ashamed the rice ball into the well, and later the water in the well became alcohol. This is the same way as the source of the previous wine festival.
People in Songyang avoid saying "sour" in the whole process of wine making. Neither adults nor children can say things like wine and sourness. Otherwise, the lighter will make a quarrel and the heavy will fight. Before the liquor is drained, it is called "jug castor". When someone comes to the door, he will give a bowl of wine to someone to taste. If the drinker drinks wine that is sour, he will not say sour, but say "your wine is good (adverb, to a certain extent)", at most, "your wine is a bit tough." The owner also knows what it means.
is also particular about the surrounding environment when taking wine. There should be no camphor tree board furniture beside the wine tank, and chicken feet and quinoa can not be placed, otherwise, the wine will not be good. Even a good wine will "fading out". In the past, in order to prevent the "freezing tank", a layer of straw or broken cotton batting was used to protect the outside of the wine tank. In addition, a kitchen knife will be inserted into the lid of the wine tank (Tin Yi, etc.). This is a system. Afraid of ghosts making trouble by drinking old wine secretly, making the wine sour. The kitchen knife is an iron tool, and ghosts dare not get close.
"craftsman" is easy to obtain, "ingenuity" is difficult to practice,
cultivates the mind with "craftsman" and refines skills with "heart".
Text: Synthesized from Songyang Historical Records "Tenth October Brewing Festival"
Picture: Part of the picture comes from the Internet
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