We really need to call the police! Can anyone take charge of the makeup team of this costume drama? Let’s not talk about the previous uniform “super unibrow + death false eyelashes + shocking lying silkworm”. It was hard to escape from the Korean aesthetic that made people laugh.

is really going to call the police!

Can anyone take charge of the makeup team of this costume drama?

Let’s not talk about the “super unibrow + dead false eyelashes + shocking silkworm” before.

finally escaped from the Korean aesthetic that made people laugh.

Good guy, as soon as "The Dream Returns" is released, the makeup of the female supporting role Zhang Miaoyi...

I am reborn as a beauty blogger in ancient times?

Not only that, the makeup of the heroine of the recently hit "Pearl Curtain" has also been criticized by netizens:

"The eight-character bangs, yellowish hair color, and cheongsam are too modern."

The creative team cannot study it carefully. Would you like to use ancient makeup to gain traffic?

It is obvious that our ancestors have advanced aesthetic concepts and have many styles of makeup, many of which are uniquely beautiful.

Today Sheep will talk about those wonderful ancient makeup faces!

Qin and Han Dynasties: Eyebrows of different shapes

As early as the Qin Dynasty, women’s makeup already included the concepts of base makeup, blush, eyebrow pencil, and lipstick.

On the road of makeup, our ancestors are also very bold.

They like rich colors, their makeup is mainly orange and red, and they pay attention to "red makeup and green eyebrows".

"The Beauty of Chinese Makeup"

But having said that, if you say you like green eyebrows, you may not have a choice.

At that time, the thrush material was made of copper green, verdigris, azurite, azurite and other minerals ground and mixed, and the result was green eyebrows.

Picture source @小米 casually write

They use mercury sulfide, a small amount of iron oxide and clay to make cinnabar, and mix it with water to turn it into lipstick.

Use rice flour ground from grains and lead powder in paste form to apply powder. Make safflower into rouge and apply it on the cheekbones to create red makeup.

The most striking feature of red makeup is "white powder on the face and scarlet eye makeup".

Stills from "Ode to the Qin Dynasty"

The Han Dynasty inherited the customs of the Qin Dynasty, and the makeup style is similar to the Qin Dynasty, but women in the Han Dynasty created more styles of eyebrow makeup.

Character eyebrows have drooping ends, giving people a feeling of being weak and pitiable.

There is a record in "The Dressing Table": "Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty ordered the palace people to sweep their eyebrows."

Picture source @caiyizi

Qu Yuan mentioned in "Li Sao" that "all the women are jealous of me."

Drawing eyebrows will make a woman look gentle and elegant.

Picture source @古月之久人

However, the longer the eyebrows are drawn, the more slender they become, and the eyebrows turn into broad eyebrows.

Some eyebrows can reach the temples on one side, and are half as long as the forehead.

The maids in the picture in Mawangdui all wear wide eyebrows

During the period of Emperor Huan of the Han Dynasty, a kind of "scowl makeup" full of morbid beauty was also popular.

The frown is more crooked than the splayed eyebrows, and looks very dejected. The makeup under the eyes is rubbed thinner, as if they have cried.

In this way, the feeling of bitterness adds to the woman's pitiful and lovable feeling.

"The Beauty of Chinese Makeup"

Women of this era also walked with bent waists and smiled with carious teeth: when walking, they looked as if their feet could not bear the weight of their lower bodies. When they laughed, they did not dare to laugh loudly, imagining that their teeth hurt.

Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties: Open and Bold

During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, regime changes, national divisions and integration, spiritual freedom and liberation, and makeup also became a hundred flowers.

There are many novel styles of makeup such as forehead yellow makeup, oblique red makeup, Shouyang makeup, yellow eyebrow makeup, purple makeup, Xu Fei half-face makeup, etc.

Yellow forehead makeup: Buddhism spreads widely. Women were inspired by the gold-painted Buddha statues and applied yellow pigment to their foreheads.

Wen Tingyun wrote in "Shadow Song" that "the yellow seal on the forehead is as light as dust, and the green scales and red osmanthus are full of color."

"Eshan" refers to the thick yellow paint that piles up on the forehead like a hill. .

Picture source @一 Jane jane

When the foreign team was filming "Mulan", they just had to faithfully restore the "yellow flowers in the mirror".

had to pile up all kinds of makeup on the basis of the yellow forehead makeup, and the result was that Liu Yifei's painting was difficult to describe...

stills of "Mulan"

also applied the makeup to the matchmaker. It was too unrestrained based on the slanted red makeup, and the effect is difficult to evaluate. .

Stills from "Mulan"

Oblique red makeup: A woman uses red paste such as cinnabar and rouge to draw a crescent-like pattern between her cheeks and temples.

Some of them are also deliberately painted in a broken shape, making it look like there are two scars and bloodstains at the corners of the eyes that are not yet dry.

sounds a bit scary, but when painted on the face, it can highlight the cute and cute side of a woman, which is very beautiful!

Henan Satellite TV's "Tang Palace Night Banquet"

Its origin is said to be that a concubine named Xue Yelai went to find Emperor Cao Pi of Wei Dynasty who stayed up late to read.

Because the lights were dim, she accidentally bumped into the crystal screen around her and bled, leaving scars on her face that looked like a crescent moon.

Because of the unique beauty of the wound, Xue Yelai was favored by Emperor Wen, so women rushed to imitate him.

"Slanted red makeup" is also called "Xiaoxia makeup". In most ancient paintings, the brackets of the slanted red makeup are facing outwards, but there are also some brackets that face inwards.

Similar to the slanted red makeup, there is also plum blossom makeup. , also called Luomeizhuang.

Because this makeup comes from Princess Shouyang who originated from the Northern and Southern Dynasties, it is also called Shouyang makeup.

One day when she was sleeping in front of the temple, a plum blossom fell from the plum tree and stuck to her forehead, which could not be removed no matter what.

It was not until three days later that the plum blossoms were washed off, but the mark of five petals was left on the princess's forehead.

When the women in the palace saw this, they also followed suit, cutting plum blossoms and pasting them on their foreheads.

This makeup style was revived during the Wu Zetian period of the Tang Dynasty due to Shangguan Wan'er. It is said that she painted the flowers in the shape of plum blossoms to cover up the injury on her forehead.

"The Beauty of Chinese Makeup"

Among the many makeup looks that cater to men's aesthetics, there is one that is unique - Concubine Xu's half-face makeup.

Xu Zhaopei married Xiao Yi, Emperor Liang Yuan of the Southern Dynasty, as his concubine. She was left out because of her poor appearance and was favored only once every two or three years.

This sister is also very tough. She knows that Xiao Yi is blind in one eye. Every time he wants to come, she only puts on half of her face with makeup, full of sarcasm, and makes the emperor very angry.

"The Beauty of Chinese Makeup"

Nowadays we often say "half-old lady, her charm is still there", and the lady refers to her.

She cuckolded the emperor and had an affair with his attendant Ji Ji Jiang. Ji Ji Jiang sighed: "Although the lady is old, she is still passionate."

Tang Dynasty: Gorgeous and exquisite

The Tang Dynasty was the unified Central Plains dynasty after the Sui Dynasty in Chinese history. The rule of Zhenguan laid the foundation for the prosperous Tang Dynasty.

During this period, the economy and culture flourished. The people lived and worked in peace and contentment, and their living standards became higher.

’s aesthetics emphasize plumpness as beauty, and women’s makeup styles have also become light and slim.

They often wear peach blossom makeup, pursuing a well-proportioned and fair face, slender eyebrows with flower patterns, and simple and clean makeup.

In "Meng Hua Lu", the oiran style is painted with peach blossom makeup

In the era of Wu Zetian, when the empress came, the makeup began to become wild and bold.

Thick and thick eyebrows became popular, the cheeks were slanted red and thicker rouge was applied, and the pattern of the flower pattern on the forehead became more complex and gorgeous.

The wine-smudged makeup is a typical example. The concept of atmospheric makeup is hundreds of years ahead of the current beauty bloggers!

Apply rouge on the entire cheek, and also apply rouge on the eyes and ears. Looking at it, the whole face is full of vitality.

"Wine makeup" is a bit like an upgraded version of "peach blossom makeup". The makeup is thickened and thickened

"The Twelve Hours of Chang'an" not only restored this makeup, but also added red dots to the actress's dimples.

The red dots on both sides of the mouth are called facial dimples. "Shuowen Jiezi" explains: "Dimples refer to cheeks."

Regarding the origin of this kind of decoration, there is a saying:

When the concubines in the harem were on their period and could not sleep with them, and they could not clearly tell the emperor that they refused to favor him, they would put two dots on both sides of their faces. Bedroom arrangements will be made.

Later, dimples spread to the people and gradually became a kind of decoration.

The unearthed pottery figurines of the Tang Dynasty are painted with mother-of-pearl flowers, slanting red, and dimples.

The situation is stable and prosperous. Women will also carefully trace the dimples and paint gorgeous and exquisite patterns.

"Chinese Dresses: Daughters of the Tang Dynasty" written by Zuo Qiu Meng and painted in late spring

In the middle of the Tang Dynasty, the family and country were in turmoil after the Anshi Rebellion, and the Tang Dynasty turned from prosperity to decline.

Makeup that “puts emotions on the face” such as crying makeup, Shishi makeup, blood halo makeup, dangerous makeup, etc. appeared.

At that time, there were frequent cultural exchanges between Han people and Hu people. Influenced by Hu makeup, they began to add black dye to lipstick.

Contemporary makeup: Usually eyebrows are painted, the most prominent feature is that women do not wear lipstick, but wear black lips.

The black paste mentioned in "Tang Gui 2" is this kind of special lipstick

Bai Juyi wrote in "Zhuang of the Times·Junrong Ye": "The black paste on the lips looks like mud, and the eyebrows are drawn with a low profile."

He complained that this kind of makeup was not good-looking, and the black lump on his mouth looked like it was covered with mud.

"The Beauty of Chinese Makeup"

Blood halo makeup is a bit weirder than Shishi makeup.

The woman painted red horizontal lines around her eyes. It looked like her face had been scratched, with a bloody feeling...

Source @jinsheng

The dangerous makeup was full of Gothic style and had a grotesque beauty.

Women shave all their eyebrows and the hair in front of their foreheads to move the hairline, and then put on eyebrow makeup on their foreheads.

Picture source @淒

In the movie "Detective Dee", the actress wore dangerous makeup, and her eyebrows were long and short.

But the timeline is wrong. Wu Zetian was in the transition period from the early Tang Dynasty to the prosperous Tang Dynasty, and the dangerous makeup was the makeup of the middle and late Tang Dynasty.

Song Dynasty: Delicate and Elegant

Confucianism was revived in the Song Dynasty, Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism emerged, and they paid attention to the delicate and natural beauty of "hibiscus comes out of clear water, and the carvings are naturally removed".

Folk women mostly wear simple, elegant and thin makeup, which can be called the originator of "plain water makeup".

From the seated statues of Empress Xuanzu of Song Dynasty and Empress Zhenzong of Song Dynasty, we can see that the facial makeup of court women is also relatively simple.

What is the purple thing on the face of Empress Zhenzong of Song Dynasty in the picture on the right? There is still controversy. Some say it is purple powder makeup, and some say it is purple gauze, because at that time, some people would use tulle to stick to their faces. let Wrinkles are invisible

In the middle of the Song Dynasty, natural, white and flawless pearls were deeply loved by the people of the Song Dynasty who loved elegance, and pearlescent makeup became popular.

The seated statue of Empress Renzong of Song Dynasty wears a crown of nine dragon hairpins, nine large pearls on her face, and nine pearl earrings.

Generally, three things are used to affix pearls: paste made from grain, gelatin made from animal leather or bones, isinglass or resin from pine cypress. To improve facial proportions and have the effect of "slimming the face", our ancestors were really ahead of their time.

In the late Song Dynasty, the position of the beads remained unchanged, but the number decreased.

The number of facial pearls in the seated statue of Empress Guangzong of Song Dynasty was greatly reduced, and the large pearls were replaced by small pearls.

The costume dramas "Mo Yu Yun Jian" and "Qing Ping Le" all used this pearl flower makeup.

The more pearls there are, the more it proves that a woman has a noble status.

Folk women who cannot afford pearls also have their own methods. They will polish fish bones into smooth "fish stones".

use fish stones as flower patterns, and then cut out black glossy paper to decorate the dimples. This is their makeup - Yu Meizi makeup.

"National Geographic of China"

During the Southern Song Dynasty, the three-white makeup became popular, focusing on the forehead, chin, and bridge of the nose.

is similar to the "highlight" emphasized now, which can make people's facial features appear more three-dimensional.

"Four Beautiful Pictures" of the Song Dynasty and "Ting Ruan Picture" of the Southern Song Dynasty

At the 23rd China Shanghai International Arts Festival, when the Shanghai Song and Dance Troupe performed the original dance drama "Li Qingzhao", they all wore three white makeup.

Ming and Qing Dynasties: conservative and reserved

In the Ming Dynasty, influenced by Cheng-Zhu Neo-Confucianism, which "preserves the principles of nature and destroys human desires", women must abide by the concept of chastity and become restrained in dressing up.

Their facial makeup inherited the pearl makeup and three-white makeup from the Song Dynasty, but it was simpler and plainer.

Tang Yin of the Ming Dynasty's "Picture of Prostitutes in the Palace of Wangshu"

The facial makeup is simple, and the woman focuses on the bun.

They braided various hairstyle styles such as peony hair, goose gall heart bun, and heart-shaped bun, and wore complicated headdresses.

"Powdered Spring and Autumn Period Chinese Decoration of Past Dynasties"

After the Qing soldiers entered the customs, the Qing Dynasty replaced the Ming Dynasty.

Manchu culture respected male dominance, women were dependent on men, and makeup was required to be classical and subtle.

As a result, "curved eyebrows and narrow eyes" have become the mainstream. Willow leaf eyebrows + a little pink lips look lovable.

-point crimson lip makeup is a bit like the current lip-biting makeup. Lipstick is not applied on the upper lip, but only the inside of the lower lip is applied, not the outside.

Many concubines in "Story of Yanxi Palace" basically wear this kind of lip makeup.

The seemingly simple makeup actually reflects the cultural trends and social background of a specific era to a certain extent, and is also an important channel for the audience to understand history.

Classical makeup contains colorful beauty. In today’s flood of costume dramas, they all become “super false eyelashes + Korean unibrow”.

No wonder the audience often complains. No matter how restored the scenery is or how complicated the headdress is, it can easily cause drama.

Regardless of the fantasy fairy tale novels that make up history, those costume dramas with clear historical backgrounds and historical facts to draw from can be less confusing and put more effort into it.

has passed the basics of persuasion and feeds the audience some chaff?

The protagonists wear incompatible modern makeup and makeup styles that span time and space. How can we make everyone immersed in it?