The eleventh episode of the second season of "City of Museums" - the exploration of the origins of Chinese civilization, exclusively broadcast by Guojiao 1573, which has been brewing for 450 years, will be with you tonight. In this episode, Shan Jixiang, the mentor of the exploration team, leads the exploration team members Guo Pei, Wang Yuheng, and Zheng Lu to embark on the wonderful journey of "tracing the origins" of Chinese clothing civilization and feel the spirit and beauty of the entwined silk threads. As a country with ancient clothing, China's weaving and embroidery skills have been passed down for thousands of years, continuously leading to changes in Chinese aesthetics. "Tracing the origins" of Chinese clothing civilization is of great significance to the inheritance of ancient Chinese civilization.
Appreciate the charm of textiles and feel the exquisiteness of palace clothes
There are many large ancient textile machines in the Beijing Dongyun Silk Culture and Art Museum that are still in use. At the beginning of this program, the exploration team went to Beijing Dongyun Silk Culture and Art Museum according to the clues in the exploration box. Ni Dongkan, director of Beijing Dongyun Silk Culture and Art Museum, explained to the delegation the Dahualou loom, the most complex and powerful machine in the textile machinery. Dahua Louji has existed since the Tang Dynasty and is said to have a history of more than a thousand years. It can weave infinitely large patterns. All textiles are formed by controlling the interweaving of warp and weft threads at different frequencies. How does the weaver know which thread to operate when weaving? The same textiles "damping", "silk" and "satin" all have twisted silk edges. Why does the "brocade" of Yunjin brocade have a metal edge?
The exploration group came to the Tsinghua University Art Museum and took a close look at the treasure of the Weaving and Embroidery Hall - the red wrought embroidered figure and flower palace clothes of the Qing Dynasty. The exquisiteness of this palace clothes is unparalleled. Three-color cloud shoulder with elegant color matching; red satin above the waist, the bottom pattern is typical gold plate embroidery and swastika pattern, which means longevity, and auspicious patterns are embroidered with silk thread made of real gold silk; the sleeves adopt rare wavy pattern; eight Twelve colorful embroidered ribbons form a phoenix tail skirt, decorated with small grape-shaped bells. There are 248 figures embroidered on the entire palace gown. How exquisite is the embroidery of so many figures? I know a lot about clothes. In the past, what level of people could wear palace clothes of this level? Is the colorful feathered coat described in "Hongchang Xiapei walking and shaking the crown, and the pearls and pearls wearing Shanshan" related to this dress? Stay tuned for tonight's show.
Learn about ancient costumes and appreciate the beauty of replicas of cultural relics
Afterwards, the exploration group came to the Capital Museum. Fu Meng, deputy research librarian of the Capital Museum, showed the group a copy of the Ming Dynasty red suluo embroidered flat golden dragon and hundred seeds flower collar women's jacket. This piece of clothing is embroidered with a hundred children laughing and playing, some are prying a bathtub, some are playing tops, and some are riding bamboo horses. It is equivalent to a children's encyclopedia of the Ming Dynasty. What is the meaning of the Hundred Sons Picture in Chinese tradition? It can be seen from the details that the embroidery methods of this garment are diverse and complex, and the embroidery thread materials are also very precious. The on-site exploration group experienced the production process of peacock feather thread, from material selection to twisting, who performed better?
Through the recommendation of Teacher Fu Meng, the exploration team visited Wang Yarong, a senior engineer at the Institute of History of the Chinese Academy of Social Sciences. Teacher Wang Yarong has presided over and participated in the protection and cleanup of textile cultural relics at more than 20 archaeological sites including the Minfeng Niya Site in Xinjiang, the Tomb of Haihunhou in Jiangxi, and the Eastern Zhou Dynasty Tomb in Jing'an, Jiangxi. She is the well-deserved first person in the field of Chinese weaving and embroidery. . Teacher Wang Yarong showed the exploration group a copy of a light yellow silk cotton robe embroidered with phoenix and flower patterns unearthed from Chu Tomb No. 1 in Mashan. The cotton robe was embroidered with a standing three-headed bird. The overall color palette was small, with only four colors. Teacher Wang Yarong restored and engraved this cultural relic according to the requirement of ten needles per centimeter, reaching the highest standards. But the techniques of the ancients have long been lost. How did Teacher Wang Yarong restore them? What’s so special about this technique? Tonight's program will answer them all for you.
Clothing comes first when it comes to food, clothing, housing and transportation. As an important part of traditional Chinese culture, weaving and embroidery skills are still closely related to our lives today. It can be seen from archaeological excavations and cultural relics handed down from ancient times that the production technology of weaving and embroidery cultural relics is the most complex. Each craft technology has a unique production process and exudes unique artistic charm. Nowadays, more and more fresh blood has been injected into the research on ancient Chinese costumes and passed on in an orderly manner.The inheritance from generation to generation not only allows us to see our past civilization from silk, but also shapes our national pride from silk.
What exactly does Nishang Yuyi look like? Why are textiles unearthed from ancient tombs so rare? Today at 21:05, watch the second season of Beijing Satellite TV's "Museum City" - the season of exploring the origins of Chinese civilization, explore the spirit and beauty of the silk threads, and feel the endless inheritance of silk civilization.