Youyou Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area
The first day
I. First meet the Yongding Tulou
1. Preface: If you say "Huangshan returns without looking at the mountains, Jiuzhai returns without looking at the water", then you can say "Yongding returns without looking at the house". . Yongding Tulou is a memory of distant culture. The gray-yellow earth walls and messy stone piles are the mystery and magic precipitated by the running water by the village and the moonlight at the village head.
2. About the travel notes: During the 519 China Tourism Festival, the author went to visit Yongding Tulou for nearly a week. During this period, the author's footprints spread all over Yongding Gaobei Tulou Group, Hongkeng Tulou Group, Nanxi Tulougou, Chuxi Tulou Group and Zhongchuan Ancient Villages. The findings, hearings and feelings during the visit are now compiled into articles, and some guidance on transportation, accommodation, and catering will be given. I hope this article can help those who are interested in or want to visit the earth buildings.
3. Friends who are interested in transportation, accommodation, catering and tour route design can directly skip to the corresponding part at the end of the article to view.
4. The ancient legend about Tulou: The birth of Tulou is closely related to the migration civilization of Hakka people. Hakka culture is the soul of Tulou. It is precisely around the core of Hakka that Tulou produces such a distinctive humanistic landscape. Yongding Tulou was born in the Song and Yuan dynasties and matured in the late Ming and Qing dynasties and the Republic of China. The Han Chinese who moved south from the Central Plains were unable to withstand the long-term intrusion of the frontier iron cavalry tribes. From the Western Jin Dynasty to the Ming and Qing Dynasties, they migrated in batches from the Central Plains to live in the areas south of the Yangtze River Basin, and then continued to move south, forming a wandering landscape of Hakka scattered in many parts of the world.
5. Modern legend about Tulou: More than ten years ago, Americans discovered from photos taken by spy satellites that there are many circular buildings in the mountainous area at the junction of Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi in China. They don't understand what these circular buildings are. According to military experts' analysis, they are very much like nuclear reactors. This alarmed the officials of the White House and the Pentagon! They sent nuclear experts, dressed as tourists, to visit Yongding County in western Fujian under the pretext of tourism. They discovered that they were huge earth buildings built by Hakkas during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Americans are amazed at the architectural art and use functions of these earth buildings, and they think this is another miracle in the history of ancient Chinese architecture. Some people even think it can be comparable to the Great Wall! After returning to the United States, they advertised that Hakka Tulou, which was not well known in China, became famous overseas. The American propaganda has attracted the attention of our Chinese compatriots. The cultural and cultural departments of Fujian, Guangdong, and Jiangxi have organized field trips by experts and scholars in the fields of history, culture, architecture, and folklore. After in-depth research, they discovered that there are still such shining treasures hidden in such mountainous areas.
6 on photographic equipment: Nikon D700 + Nikon 28-300 + Sigma 24mm
7 About Travels Author:. tj careful
next day
Second, the acquaintance came to Yongding Hakka culture
, coincides with the 519 China Tourism Day. In response to this festival, the Yongding Tulou Scenic Area held a grand celebration. Therefore, I was fortunate to have seen the performances of traditional Hakka folk songs and Western Minxi Han opera, and I admired the warmth and hospitality of Hakka traditional culture.
The first time I heard Hakka folk songs was at the "Xu Xiaofeng Golden Light Concert". In order to enliven the atmosphere, Sister Xiaofeng sang a few Hakka folk songs improvisationally, and the atmosphere reached a climax. At that time, it was also the first time I knew that there was such a magical existence as "Hakka folk songs". Today, in Yongding, Fujian, in the homeland of the Hakka people, I really heard the Hakka folk songs!
once again came into contact with Hakka folk songs. I was listening to the Hakka folk songs sung by Grandma Yangyang while watching "The Heroine of the Heroine and the Heroine" starring Deng Cuiwen. At that time, combined with the TV plot and grandma Yang Yang's cute and innocent smiling face, I once again fell into a strong interest in Hakka culture.
Minxi Han Opera is another great achievement of this trip. For me, who likes traditional drama, this is the first time I have heard of this kind of drama. However, judging from the name of the play alone, it is not difficult to see that such a play should be accompanied byThe Hakka people came south.
's close appreciation of Hakka culture is certainly exciting. But the most exciting thing is to meet a group of well-known travel experts here. Everyone met for the first time, but they chatted very speculatively. In just one night, everyone became friends who said nothing.
is not really for advertising. This is the local soil tea that our team won from answering questions at the dinner event. Hereby take a photo to commemorate it. The tea tastes pretty good. It is said to be a local specialty. It is a special earth tea made by the locals to treat foreigners who are not satisfied with the water and soil. It is a good choice for tourists with this symptom.
The second day of
3. Gaobei Tulou Group: Encounter with Tulou King
Landscape Evaluation: ★★★★☆
Tour Time: Half a day
The biggest highlight: Yongding’s “biggest” Tulou is located at the location of
, with the back of the high woods in the north. The lush Jinshan, Gaotou River passes from east to west in front of the village, with mountains and waters behind, and the pattern of Fengshui is very good. In the tulou group, the Chengqi Building, known as the "king of Tulou", can be regarded as the best tulou in Fujian in terms of form and scale! A jingle that is widely spread in Hakkas, "Four stories high, four circles inside, four hundred up and down; the circle is in the circle, the circle is round, and it has gone through the Cangsang for hundreds of years; the building is in the middle of the building, the sky is outside the sky, and the population is nearly 1,000. "This is the Chengqi Building. The Qiaofu Building on the side was built in 1962 by overseas Chinese capital. It is the youngest brother in the Tulou group.
1. "The King of Tulou" Chengqi Building
If you can only see one Tulou, then this choice is not a "Chainqi Building". Chengqi Building is the round building with the largest number of circles. It consists of four concentric round buildings surrounded by rings, and is a typical interior corridor-style round building. The layout of the whole building echoes the Taiji, Liangyi, Sanyuan, Sixiang, Bagua, and 64 hexagrams of the innate sixty-four hexagrams in the Book of Changes. Entering the building is like entering a labyrinth, which is indistinguishable from the southeast, northwest.
The equal settlement style of Chengqi Building is an example of the Hakka people living together. The couplet in the hall is the best illustration: one is born in a family, and there is not much closeness. Why should we divide you and me? Living in the building, meeting in and out, it is most suitable to emphasize the legal relationship.
Chengqi Building is permeated with a strong atmosphere of rural life, and is even hailed as a "family city" by Japanese scholars. It is said that in its heyday, Chengqi Building once lived in more than 80 households with a total of more than 600 people, all of whom were of the same ethnic group. Even today with the great development of tourism, this place has not been swallowed up by tourism. The rooms in the building are still inhabited and used by locals, which can be described as "living historical heritage".
2. "Doctor Building" Qiaofu Building
Qiaofu Building was built very late and was donated by Haihua Overseas Chinese in 1962. It can be described as the youngest brother in the Gaobei Tulou group. It shows the patriotism of living abroad. Sincere feelings.
The origin of the "Doctor Building" is that this building is famous for producing 11 doctors. So far, in this earthen building, the strong cultural atmosphere can still be clearly identified.
Because Yongding is rich in tobacco leaves, the "homemade cigarettes" of Tulou has become a relatively special sight in the local area. For smokers, this has to be said to be a gospel.
3. View of Gaobei Village, Gaotou Township
Opposite view of Qiaofu Building and Chengqi Building, Gaobei Village.
Gaobei Village is certainly famous for the two famous buildings of "Chengqi Building" and "Qiaofu Building", but the village scenery of Gaobei Village is still worth exploring. At the end of the village, you can find traces of history inadvertently.
Gaobei Village is not like a town, it has clean streets. The gray-yellow walls and mottled gravel roads in the village seem to be "rusty in the earth" to outsiders. But without the hustle and bustle of the city, without the visual interference of urban reinforced concrete, what Tulou Village brings to everyone is absolutely pure visual aesthetic enjoyment. The fruit shop at the entrance of the village of
is very southern. This is the first time I have seen a bunch of red bananas from the north.
fourth day
4. Hongkeng Tulou Group: "Sleep" you
not far from thousands of miles away Landscape evaluation: ★★★★★
Tour time: one day
The biggest highlight: the centralized layout of large-scale earth buildings, one of the sceneries of Jiang Wen's "One Step Away"
Zhencheng Building "Prince of Tulou": a world heritage site where you can live
Zhencheng Building, known as the "Prince of Tulou", has the layout design of Suzhou gardens and the characteristics of ancient Greek architecture. It can be called a combination of Chinese and Western architecture. Weird. In 1995, its architectural model and the Temple of Heaven in Beijing participated in the "World Architecture Exhibition in Los Angeles, USA" as the representative of China's north-south circular architecture, which caused a sensation and was known as the "Pearl of Oriental Architecture".
has a very famous song called "Watching the Grassland with You". Here, I just want to change the lyrics to "Watch Tulou with you".
Perhaps, in everyone’s impression, the Tulou is just a world heritage for "seeing". However, I would like to say that the true and correct way to open Tulou should be used to "live", which is also the original intention of their design. Locals say that the tulou was managed by people because it was inhabited, and it can last for hundreds of years. Many people go to the empty Tulou, but in the end they cannot escape the doom of collapse. "Zhencheng Building" is such a world cultural heritage that is open to tourists and can be used for tourists to live in. It is highly recommended for travel friends to come and feel the night of Xiatulou.
2. Kuiju Building: There is a temple in my house, and there is also a big theater
The small Kuiju Building is not large in scale, but it took nearly five years to build it. The so-called "Sparrow is small but has all five internal organs", the small Kuiju Building is a collection of many traditional buildings, including an ancestral hall and a theater. Looking from a height, it looks like a mountain temple complex has lived in the Tulou home. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that "I have a temple in my house and a big theater".
3. Fuyu Building: The representative of the "Fudi-style" Tulou
Fuyu Building is very large in scale and high in form and level. In my opinion, it is very similar to the Fujian Tulou version of Shanxi Huangcheng Xiangfu and Qiao Family Courtyard. It is said that the building cost more than 100,000 Guangyang and it took three years to complete.
Entering the Tulou, the hall is completely furnished in the northern Han style. The shape of the whole building is very special, like three mountains, implying the meaning of "three mountains" by the three brothers of the host.
4. The tulou group and primitive villages of Hongkeng Village
Hongkeng Village is built by the river. There is a big banyan tree at the entrance of the village, and there is also a pond. The pattern of feng shui is excellent. There is also a Tianhou Palace at the entrance of the village
, standing there quietly, mysterious and simple.
fade away the same uninspired tourist souvenirs from other scenic spots. The local specialties sold in Hongkeng Village are quite grounded.
Hongkeng Village has an excellent view of the village. Streams and rivers pass through the village. The village is built on both banks of the river. The large and small, round and round earth buildings along the bank form a unique landscape.
Strolling in Hongkeng Village, from time to time, you can find breathtaking rural scenes: either the life-like landscape in the earth building, the earth building set up with the stream in the village, or the withered private school in the village. Between ruined walls and gullies, you can always find a place that touches you.
Fifth day
5. Nanxi Tulougou: The Great Wall of Tulou in Southern China
Landscape evaluation: ★★★★★
Tour time: Half a day
The biggest highlight: Jiang Wen's "One Step Away" is one of the sceneries
Jiaotatang Village Lookout : The best place to view the Tulougou Great Wall
The best view of the Tulougou in Nanxi should be obtained from the air, which should be the correct way to open it. Nanxi, originally a small stream in Hukeng Town. The countercurrent from Hukeng Town runs through the villages of Xiananxi, Xinnan, Nanzhong, Nanjiang and Shijia. A mountain bag in Jiaotang Natural Village can be said to be the best viewpoint overlooking Tulougou.
Yongding Hukeng Nanjiang Village can be described as Tulou ditchBeautiful village. The village is located between the ravines of the green hills, and Xihe is accompanied by the village. The 23 earthen buildings, the "daughter forest" and the terraced fields arranged among the mountains have witnessed the village's more than 400 years of history. The scene in Jiang Wen's "One Step Away" was filmed here when the handsome drove after his daughter.
boarded a viewing platform on a mountain bag in Jiaotang Natural Village. Looking around, I saw Yoyo Nanxi passing through a long narrow valley, with gurgling streams, green hills and cascading terraces. On both sides of the Nanxi River, there are more than 100 earth buildings of different shapes, such as round, square, octagonal, hexagonal, triangular, D-shaped, elliptical, round front and rear, large or small, or tall or Low, gathering or scattered, inlaid in the terraced valleys, on the crooked river bank, like a rushing dragon, winding for more than ten kilometers, it is magnificent.
2. Nanjiang Village: The simple and tearful village
Because the river flows through the village, the most beautiful scenery of Nanjiang Village is almost all born out of the stream. The villages are built on the hills, and the highlands are undulating; the streams follow the topography, layered and jagged. A unique picture of rural life is slowly unfolding in this pattern.
Feng Shui is extremely important to the Hakka people. At the entrance of Nanjiang Village, we can also see the Tin Hau Temple built by the stream. The scene described by Taiwanese folk singer Wang Menglin in the "Temple Fair" "red candles burning with sandalwood, the Buddha is full of incense; praying for a good winter harvest and peace for the wanderers" is well commented here.
"The Hakka ancestors walked in such a hurry. Everywhere they went, they wandered as guests with the hardships of the wind and dust, floating a gradually thinning figure, until disappeared in the quiet and deep dark cloud and was tired and collected. They are together. In the long night, the dawn followed. The footsteps pierced through the stars and lightning, plated every beating note, and finally found the weight of human and inhabited life."
For hundreds of years, the Hakka people have been for them. Proud of living in a big family, this is the proud living tradition they brought from the Central Plains. The dream that is immersed in the literati's desk sketch and hazy in the story of the grandmother, Jing is here to show real and clear, tangible and tangible. Due to the unique shape, magnificent momentum, and moisture-proof and shock-proof functions of the earth building, it is known as the unique mythical residential building in the world.
"Why do I always have tears in my eyes? Because of my deep love for this land". The poet Ai Qing used his honest and simple language to express the Chinese people's nostalgia for the countryside, the land, and the homeland. It can be said that the people living in the village are the most precious wealth in a village. The traces of the years, the mottled history, and all the stories about the village are portrayed in the wrinkles and white hair of the old man...
This scene reminds me of the folk songs "Country Road" and "Barefoot" The melody of "On the Rand"...
Thanks to my companion for this photo taken during the investigation of Tulougou in Nanjiang Village. The innocent, primitive and self-ideal life of the village boy, farm cow and me can be seen in the picture. The child grew up in a tulou, and the child’s mother was a daughter-in-law bought from Vietnam. We reached a common topic on the issue of farming cattle. And the "God's writing" given by the companion to this photo may make this picture full of humor. "Let me ask you, is this cow delicious?"
I hope our arrival will not bother this party. Quiet...
Day 6
6. Zhongchuan Ancient Village: Yongding's hometown of overseas Chinese
Landscape evaluation: ★★★☆☆
Tour time: about 2 hours
The biggest highlight: the famous hometown of overseas Chinese, the hometown of Hu Wenhu
Zhongchuan Ancient Village, Yongding Yangzhen is the hometown of Hu Wenhu, a famous overseas Chinese entrepreneur, newspaperist and philanthropist in Nanyang. The famous Tiger Balm brand was created by Hu Wenhu. The "Haw Leopard Villa" in the village is one of the three villas built by Hu Wenhu before his death (the other two are in Singapore and Hong Kong), and it has been listed as a heritage protection unit.
Linshui Old Street is the essence of Zhongchuan Ancient VillageHuaxian, strolling in the alleys, is full of authentic ancient buildings. The residential buildings here are mainly earth buildings, which are square or round, or high or low, and a sense of simplicity is oncoming. The core part of
village is an ancestral hall. It can be said that the strong Hakka culture is condensed in this small ancestral hall. In Zhongchuan Village, there is a peculiar phenomenon, that is, there are several times more overseas Chinese than there are in the hometown. Currently, there are more than 3,000 villagers in Zhongchuan Village, and there are about 15,000 overseas Chinese living overseas. The Hu Wenhu Memorial Hall, Tiger Leopard Tower, Hu Family Temple, and Zhongchuan Ancient Streets in the village attract tourists from all over the world.
Seventh day
7. Shuiyuan Tower: Hakka Tulou Days and Nights and Hakka Full Cattle Feast
Landscape Evaluation: ★★★★☆
Tour time: one night (dinner and accommodation can be resolved here)
highlight: tasting Full Cattle Banquet
Day and Night of Tulou
Day and Night of Yongding Tulou. If the Tulou in the daytime is a closed society with a strong taste of the market, then the Tulou at night is a mysterious space that makes people fascinated. The tulou at night is not like the drunken fan of urban nightlife, nor does it have the feasting and feasting of the Jiangnan water village at night, and some are more like greetings from different spaces across time and space. Perhaps only in such an environment can we complete heart-to-heart exchanges and candid dialogue with history.
2. Hakka "Full Cattle Banquet"
Yongding Tulou "Full Cattle Banquet" is the most solemn table etiquette for Hakkas to treat guests. A cow was used from head to toe, from inside to outside, all selected as food. In the past, the Hakka people lived in a trap, and the cow became the most valuable item of the family. Therefore, the whole cattle will be slaughtered for delicacies only during the holidays or when receiving important guests. Nowadays, the living conditions of the Hakka people have improved, but the cultural essence of the "full cattle feast" has been retained and gradually integrated into the lives of the people. Basically, every household can't live without beef. Therefore, when you come to Yongding, you must not only see the Tulou and live in the Tulou, but also have to taste the "Full Cattle Banquet" before you have been to Yongding.
Eighth day
Eight. Chuxi Tulou Group: Collision between dry and wet
Landscape evaluation: ★★★★★
Tour time: One day
The biggest highlight: The oldest "Jiqing Building" in Yongding Tulou: The biggest highlight: One of the filming locations of Jiang Wen's "One Step Away", the red windmill
"on the water side" Chuxi Tulou group
When I first saw Chuxi, everything seemed like a world away. The Tulou group was built in Linxi according to the terrain. This sharp contrast between dry and wet reaches its extreme in Chuxi and is very spectacular. However, after interviews, it was discovered that the conflict of interests between the people and the government has reached a point of intensification, and there have even been many conflicts. At present, the top-down elite development model of China's rural heritage protection and development has its drawbacks. World heritage in China, Chinese-style world cultural heritage is indeed a question worth pondering, and this is the main reason why I chose to stay for in-depth research!
2. The red windmill at the end of Jiang Wen's "One Step Away"
Chuxi Tulou Group is the main location for the ending plot of Jiang Wen's "One Step Away". The red windmill built in the mountains is the one that appeared in the movie! a step far! Tulou is only one step away from the blockbuster! Get up quickly and look at the domineering windmill.
3. Jiqing Building: The oldest and most unique of Yongding Tulou is the national key cultural relics protection unit. It is the oldest (built in 1419) and the most special (72 stairs) round soil building in Yongding. The wooden structure of the whole building does not need a single iron nail, and it has experienced nearly 600 years of wind, frost, snow and rain together with the raw soil wall nearly 2 meters thick.
4. Yu Qinglou: Tulou for tourists in Chuxi
For tourists who come to Chuxi, if the time is not so tight, it is recommended to stay in Chuxi for one night and choose Yu Qinglou near the river bank to stay at night. Sleeping on the river water. Comparable with other habitable earth buildingsIn comparison, Yu Qing Building can be described as VIP treatment, and it is difficult to find a separate toilet in other earth buildings.
5. Village view of Chuxi Village
After reading this, you must have a general understanding of Yongding Tulou. If you have read this article carefully, I believe you should have good answers to questions such as "Which attractions should you visit", "How to plan your own travel route and time". The Tulou is there, waiting for your arrival...
Eighth day
9. Goodbye, Tulou!
Last day of Yongding Tulou trip. Recalling the wonderful experience of these 5 days, from a traveller looking at the flowers to a more in-depth field investigator, it is the transformation of personal identity and the construction of local cultural identity. The end of one journey heralds the beginning of the next journey. That is the sentence, meet you someday, somewhere! Goodbye everyone, goodbye to Yongding Tulou.
At the end of the article, I borrow the theme song of the TV series "Song of Hakka" as the ending: farewell to my hometown, farewell to my homeland; helpless to travel far away again. I can't say it is melancholy, and I can't wave my sorrow; I will hold my hand and look at you with tears in my eyes. Looking back to when the road, is a painful stretch of desolate; past so memorable, you and I had a great time together ......
eighth day
Author: tj careful, screen name comedian (well located with good photo of the believers Apprentice), a graduate student of the Department of Landscape Architecture, School of Architecture and Urban Planning, Tongji University, and a Ph.D. candidate of Architecture at the University of Tokyo, Japan. In 2013, he was fully funded by the Erasmus project of the European Union. During the visit, he visited 82 cities and towns in 23 countries in Europe. It is now assembled into the "O Xingji" series (O Borrowed Music Europe), articles and photos will be published one after another, so stay tuned.
1. Travel and transportation
1. Public transportation
The bus from Fuzhou to Yongding is temporarily suspended. Trains from Fuzhou North to Longyan: 8:30 10:30 13:00 15:30 16:30 18:30 20:00; Fuzhou South to Longyan 8:30 10:55 13:30 16:40. After arriving at Longyan Bus Station, transfer to Longyan to Yongding Tulou for the tourist through train. There are multiple trips a day. From Xiamen Hubin South Road to Yongding Tulou Scenic Spot: 7:10 11:50 13:00. (Please refer to the latest timetable of major stations)
2. Self-driving
from Fuzhou and Xiamen to Hakka Tulou Scenic Spot: Via Fuyin Expressway—— Shenhai Expressway—West Longyan—Yongding Tulou Exit, and the Yongding Tulou Expressway exit to Hongkeng, Gaobei, and Chuxi Tulou Group. The drive generally takes about 20 minutes. There are road signs throughout the journey.
From Guangzhou direction to Hakka Tulou Scenic Area: Take Guanghe Expressway-Meihe Expressway-Meizhou Chengdong Town/Yanyang Exit and get off the expressway-Longyan direction of Fujian Province (there is a sign at the junction), about 19 kilometers to reach the bottom of Yongding Hakka Tulou Western scenic area, guide signs throughout Yongding.
From Jiangxi to Hakka Tulou Scenic Area: Via Wensha Expressway-Jiguang Expressway-Xiarong Expressway-Longchang Expressway-Putong Expressway, take the exit of Yongding Tulou Expressway to Hongkeng and Gaobei. The Chuxi Tulou Group usually takes about 20 minutes by car, and there are signposts throughout the journey.
3. There are nine EMUs from Fuzhou to Longyan, passing Putian, Xiamen, Zhangzhou, Longyan, etc. The times are: 07:09, 08:40, 11:12, 12:20, 12:37, 14:57, 17:46, 17:55, 18:03, 18:59, 19:19, 21: 25 (Please refer to the latest timetable of train stations). After arriving at Longyan Bus Station, transfer to Longyan to Yongding Tulou, or take a car at the exit of the railway station to Yongding County or Tulou Scenic Spot.
4. Ordinary train
There are two trains from Guangzhou to Yongding County: 20:40, 19:26, and two from Shenzhen to Yongding County: 21:22, 07:40.
There are more trains from Jiangxi to Longyan or via Longyan. , Visitors can check online according to their actual situation.
toAfter the Dalongyan Bus Station, transfer to Longyan to Yongding Tulou, or take a car at the exit of the railway station to Yongding County or Tulou Scenic Spot.
5. Airplanes
All major travel agencies across the country provide value-for-money flights to Xiamen and Tulou. Tourists who do not want to join the group can also take a direct flight to Xiamen for transit. Almost all local hotels and business hotels in Xiamen can sign up for a day trip to Yongding Tulou in Longyan.
2. The best travel route
Hongkeng Tulou Group-Gaobei Tulou Group-Nanxi Tulou Group-Chuxi Tulou Group-Zhongchuan Ancient Village (2-3 days)
3. Food, attractions and accommodation recommendations For details of
, please refer to the corresponding content of each chapter of the main text.
Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area·Hongkeng Scenic Area (Tulou Prince Zhencheng Building) 90 yuan/person
Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area·Gaobei Scenic Area (Tulou Wangchengqi Building) 50 yuan/person
Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area·Nanxi Scenic Area (Nanxi) Tulou Princess) 50 yuan/person
Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area•Chuxi Scenic Area (Jiqing Building) 70 yuan/person
Fujian Tulou Yongding Scenic Area•Zhongchuan Scenic Area (Hubao Villa) 30 yuan/person
