Daotou has a customary name on the southeastern coast. It is the end of the road, which is either a sea obstruction or a pier that separates rivers and lakes and is built for berthing of boats. The construction of the pier is adapted to local conditions. Some have stone slabs and stone strips laid diagonally into the water, and some have wooden structures above the water. The most famous one is Lishe Daotou in Ningbo, known as "the first Daotou in Mingzhou". It was built during the reign of Emperor Huizong of Song Dynasty and is an important landmark of the "Maritime Silk Road". Due to the story of Guanyin Bodhisattva appearing here, the short Gu Daotou in Putuo Mountain is a reference to the light of the Buddha.
My hometown, Shipu Fishing Port Ancient Town, has a corner of Yanchang Road. In my memory, the sea breeze in Daotou Kok is always tidal and sticky, with a fishy smell of the sea; on the pier, there are baskets and baskets of fish just caught from the sea, shining brightly. Shine. Like thousands of nameless Daotou, Yanchang Daotoujiao is also nameless. The sails of Daotoujiao come and go, and through its mottled extension, there are scenery that we see but may not see.
A corner of Daotou, photographed by Zhu Hong
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Since the Kangxi and Qianlong years of the Qing Dynasty, it has been developed and restored, and Shipu was opened as a port. In Fuxing, all kinds of people from southern Fujian, Taizhou and Wenzhou, including fishermen, traders, coolies, military households fleeing from military service, families fleeing from disaster, and households living on boats, followed the direction guided by the monsoon and traveled across the ocean. , the settlement became an "important town in Zhejiang and Yangtze".
The bay surrounded by Yanchang, formerly known as "Moss Tiao Bay", is full of marine flavor. Daotoujiao is located at the northern bend of "Moss Tiao Bay", at the northern end of the fishing port road built by local reclamation and road construction. From Shandong, Jiangsu and Shanghai in the north to Fujian and Guangdong in the south, from the earliest wooden sailing boats to the later motor-driven sailing boats, most of them docked at the corner of Yanchang Road at Shipu.
The sea embankment has changed the winding and varied natural shape of the harbor. First it was Xintang Bank, and then the fishing port road. The bay was continuously straightened and widened, and the shore became land. Going up to Daotoujiao is Daotou Street. More than 100 meters ahead is the T-shaped Yanchang Street. It was once the main land transportation road from Fenghua, Ninghai and Xiangshan counties to Shipu. The intersection of sea and land thoroughfares has finally become the "Fujian Fishing Market".
Yanchang Street is less than two kilometers short. From north to south, there were once built the Tianhou Palace to worship Mazu and the Sanshan Guild Hall - because the ancient city of Fuzhou has Wushan, Yushan and Ping. Mountains and mountains are also referred to as three mountains - Fuzhou Guild Hall, Chongwu Guild Hall, Quanzhou Guild Hall, the Song Palace that commemorates Bing, the young emperor of the Southern Song Dynasty who crossed the sea on Yashan Mountain, Xinghua Guild Hall, and at the far south is the Fish Master Temple, which is dedicated to the Fish Master Bodhisattva.
The bluestone slabs paved on the road were collected from the Wushan Grottoes in Ninghai. The high arched firewall door of Yanchang Middle Street is engraved with the words "Brass mulberry forever solid", which can still be seen today.
In those days, the end of the bay in the south of "Mosty Bay" was a promontory protruding to the sea. On the promontory reef, there is a fish master temple. Shipu fishermen worship the "Fish Master Bodhisattva", especially the spectacular sight of the "Big Fish Worshiping Ancient Temple" during the early summer floods, which is unique in the world.
During the Republic of China, Yu Sisheng, a famous scholar in Shipu, was known as the master of Taolu. He wrote the book "Taolu Conghua" and left a wonderful record:
The Yushi Temple is at the foot of Sanwan, only a few feet away from the river. Next to it, you can go up the stone steps. ... According to legend, on May 5th, every time a group of big fish came in with their fins, drums and hyenas, they would ride the tide in through the bronze tile gate and head towards the temple with their tails wagging.
In the old days, the Yushi Temple had "fish bones as beams", and the roof beams in the temple were decorated with huge fish bones. The enshrined Fish Master Bodhisattva is the sea god from the fishing family. This fishing master with divine power taught fishermen how to sail and fish, and protected them from disasters.
The Geya Hotel on the pier was formerly the "Three Provinces and One City" guest house. Photo by Zhu Hong
The fifth lunar month is the "summer flood". Every year during this season, swarms of big fish swim into Shipu Harbor on the high tide from the copper tile gate, jumping up and down facing the Fish Master Temple, just like worshiping the Fish Master Bodhisattva. The boss of the boat knew that this was the most prosperous time of the year for fish. In addition to large yellow croaker, there were also pomfret, cuttlefish, anchovy and other seafood. Everyone was busy packing up their fishing gear and getting ready to go overseas.
The "big fish" mentioned by the owner of Taolu is called "big fish" by local people in different ways, including "Haijiang Pig" and "Baijian Pig". When I was seven or eight years old, I once went to my grandmother's house and was walking on the "Sanwan Road Corridor" halfway up the mountain road. Suddenly I heard a noise at the seaside and someone shouted "Haijiang Pig".Looking back, I saw several big black fish jumping and tumbling in the harbor, as if traveling through time and space.
What kind of fish is the "Haijiang Pig"? What kind of fish bones are the roof beams of the Fish Master Temple? Some older people say it is a dolphin, and some say it is a whale. In January 2018, several large white bones were dug out from under the roots of an ancient tree at the former site of Yushi Temple. Xu Shanshan, a professor at the Oceanographic College of Ningbo University, identified it as a whale skull.
In 1974, the Fish Master's Temple was demolished and a four-story building "Fishing Port Guest House" was built on the original site. The locals proudly called it "Three Provinces and One City (Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Fujian and Shanghai) Guest House". The "Fishery Headquarters" that coordinates marine fishing in other provinces operates here during fishing seasons. Shenjiamen in Zhoushan, Wenling in Taizhou, Dongtou in Wenzhou and other places also have fishery headquarters along the streets.
Shipu Fishing Port is one of the four central fishing ports in my country. It is an important supply port and a famous safe haven. The East China Sea fishing ground experiences floods four times a year. Whenever the fish floods come, fishing boats from nearby provinces and cities enter the port day and night to trade supplies. The fishing port is full of boats and sails, fishing flags are fluttering; people are coming and going, and the streets are bustling.
At night, the "Three Provinces and One City Guest House" building is brightly lit, complementing the harbor street lights and the twinkling fishing lights in the harbor. It is called "Little Shanghai", a city that never sleeps.
At that time, fisheries were purchased and sold under a unified system. The local fishery headquarters is responsible for purchasing fish from local fishing boats and issuing them with coupons for salt, rice, diesel, cigarettes and wine to ensure supply. When fishermen brothers are sick and injured, they are responsible for bringing them ashore for medical treatment; when they cause trouble in the street, they must be taken back from the police.
In the late 1970s, Shipu Port became even more famous because more and more Taiwanese fishing boats took shelter from the wind to refuel. It reached its peak in 1987, when more than 1,000 Taiwanese ships entered the harbor to take shelter from the storm. There were few piers at that time, and most of the boats were parked in the middle of the fishing port, leaning together in twos and threes. People from Daotoujiao rowed small sampans to transport daily necessities such as rice, vegetables, oil, and salt onto the boats. Shaoxing old wine and Yunnan Baiyao were the treasures of Taiwanese fishermen. Some small sampan boats are filled with fresh water. The island is short of water, and a drop of water is a sign of love.
The lively and noisy scene at Dao Tau Kok all year round truly conveys the harbor atmosphere of that era. From the Fish Master Temple to the Fishery Headquarters, the development trajectory of the fishing port town slowly unfolds according to the logic of fishing, reflecting the multiple meanings of the complex relationship between people and the ocean.
二
People in southern Fujian live on the sea. Whenever they go to a place, they will go ashore to build temples to seek protection from the gods. The Tianhou Temple in Daotoujiao, Yanchang, also known as the "Sanshan Tianhou Temple", was built in the ninth year of Jiaqing in the Qing Dynasty (1804). It is integrated with the Sanshan Guild Hall in architectural form and is integrated into one. This is not only the Dojo of Mazu, but also a meeting place for coordinating fishing matters.
Plaque of Sanshan Guild Hall, photo by Zhu Hong
Architect Ieoh Ming Pei has a famous saying: "Life is architecture, and architecture is the mirror of life." "Sanshan Tianhou Temple" is the best example.
The marine socio-economic form is completely different from the traditional farming society. In distant times, land could be defined by stakes, but it was difficult to draw boundaries in the vast sea. The Moyu people "go in and out of the stormy islands". Wherever there is a fishing season, the fishing boats will go there. When fishing boats are fishing, collisions occur from time to time, and fights are inevitable.
The sea tribes cannot survive just by catching fish. Exchange and trade are the rules of survival. The commercial nature of this kind of mobile transaction is based on reputation and agreement, and negotiation of trade disputes is essential.
Chen Ruolin, the governor of Zhejiang at the time, donated his salary to the main entrance of "Tianhou Palace" and inscribed "Sanshan Guild Hall". This can be seen as a sign that when the Qing Dynasty hesitantly lifted the "sea ban", coastal local officials cautiously echoed the dynasty's policy. This kind of effort also reveals the great influence of Yanchang Daotoujiao on the sea route.
More than ten years later, Chen Mindan and others from Fujian County, Fujian Province, petitioned the Zhejiang government to clarify the rules for fishery transactions and tariffs. This was documented and a monument was erected in front of Mazu in the "Tianhou Palace" as evidence. In Tao Tau Kok, religious and secular forces coexist and work together to safeguard the religious values and social laws of traditional fishing society.
The internal logic of geo-economics has far exceeded the general understanding and cognition of traditional farming societies.The governance of traditional farming civilization is cautiously trying new coping strategies in the face of an ever-changing, oceanic world view. This conveys the Chinese people's philosophical state of "change will lead to success". "Sanshan Tianhou Temple" lurks in a corner of the sea in a unique way, intuitively showing the richness and diversity of Chinese history.
Mr. Yu Sisheng, who wrote "Taolu Conghua", served as the principal of Yanchang Feicheng Primary School. This primary school was built in 1911, the year when the Revolution of 1911 broke out. After liberation, it was renamed Yanchang Primary School, and the school building is located in Tianhou Palace. There are two-story buildings with eight bays on each side in front of the palace. These guild hall houses were initially used as a temporary resting place for folks traveling to and from Fujian, and were later allocated to local people.
When I was studying in Yanchang Primary School, in the original hall of the school gate, I often saw adults washing their faces and brushing their teeth under the eaves, washing rice and washing vegetables in the courtyard, noisy, talking and laughing, and the various scenes of the market and the fireworks of the world. , just like the tenant life of the housewife in Stephen Chow's movie "Kung Fu".
1975, fourth grade of elementary school. In the late autumn of this year, the school teacher said that the fishery brigade wanted to crack down on speculation. The senior students participated in the cooperation and set up checkpoints at Daotoujiao with the adults as soon as they arrived. The fisherman privately sells the fish he catches at high prices, which is considered speculation and is not allowed.
At that time, boys liked to play "field games". Most of them have wooden pistols, which are rather mushy. They are made of old steel bars from bicycles. There is a notch at the top of the handle, where gunpowder can be put. When you exert force, the steel bar stuck on the edge of the notch squeezes the gunpowder, and it will emit. "Pap" sound.
Hongying Gun is also my favorite. Some spears were painted silver, and some were wrapped in silver tin foil. Of course, every gun must be tied with red spikes. The white horse, silver helmet, and red tassel silver spear are none other than Changshan Zhao Zilong, the hero of the Three Kingdoms.
In the evening, we were full of energy, carrying red tassel guns on our shoulders, and lined up neatly, marching from the school to Daotoujiao. Walking on the street, I met classmates from other classes, walking back dejectedly in twos and threes. After greeting them, they said they had arrived at the pier. They were scolded by the adults and stood there for a while before returning.
Teacher Ye, the head teacher, is already at Daotoujiao, chatting with the adults of the fishing team and waiting for us. At this time, the fishing boat was returning to the port. The dock was crowded with people. Men and women were carrying fish from the boat to the dock in full swing. Teacher Ye took us to the side of the road and said, "I have already made an agreement with the leaders of the team. Everyone can just stand on the side."
There was a movie "Haixia" that year, which described the island life of our time. , extremely beautiful. The outdoor playground in a nearby village took turns to show the films, and friends carried stools and chairs to catch up. There is a lame bad guy named Liu Atai. The lame leg was a prosthetic leg with a transmitter hidden inside, and was eventually captured. On the way to Dao Tau Kok, everyone debated whether they would find a bad guy like Liu Atai.
The sea breeze in late autumn is already cool. We stood on both sides of the road at Daotoujiao, holding red tassel guns and keeping our eyes wide open, paying attention to the words and actions of passers-by, trying to find some flaws. After some time, Teacher Ye came back, called the students to gather around, and announced: "Today's task is completed. The sea breeze is cool in the evening, everyone should go home quickly."
三
Daotou is small but the world is big. In January 1927, I think it was an early winter morning. Mr. Cai Yuanpei and Mr. Ma Xulun hurriedly boarded a boat anchored at Daotoujiao and sailed to Dongmen Island on the other side. From Dongmen Island, they took a boat south to Fuzhou.
Mr. Cai Yuanpei, who advocates "replacing religion with aesthetic education", is world-famous as the president of Peking University. Mr. Ma Xulun later became the first chairman of the China Association for the Promotion of Democracy, and at this time served in the Zhejiang Provincial Government of the Beiyang Government. Cai Yuanpei and Ma Xulun are both great writers and social activists.
They were wanted for coordinating the Northern Expedition of the rising National Revolutionary Army. The two gentlemen fled all the way from Hangzhou to Shipu Fishing Port on the Xiangshan Peninsula, which is located in the corner of the sea. The corner of Yanchang Road unintentionally became the ferry crossing in their lives.
Mr. Cai Yuanpei left eight characters on Dongmen Island: "Go out of the east gate and you will see the light." Beyond the waterway at the east gate of Shipu is the vast East China Sea; "Jieer Zhaoming" is cited in the Book of Songs.The short eight characters integrate geography and humanities, creating a clear atmosphere of vast seas and skies.
The statue of Mr. Cai Yuanpei on Dongmen Island, photo by Zhu Hong
Slang can best directly understand the customs and customs of a place, such as the "accent" of Shanghai people and the "62" of Hangzhou people. The slang that best reflects the regional characteristics of Yanchang Daotoujiao is "Adi".
The image slang of "father" quickly defeated the traditional first person pronouns such as "I" and "Ala" and entered the local daily language scene.
As for the origin of the name "Adi", a local friend did some interesting research: First, during the Qi Jiajun's anti-Japanese war in the Ming Dynasty, the accent left by the soldiers from the north was "My", which is homophonic to "Adi"; The second one is the same as "Lao Tzu". The island man makes a living from the sea, which reflects his unique heroic spirit and brave personality. There are many legends and no definite conclusion.
"Dad" They are the eldest brother of the Chen family and the younger brother of the Lin family; they are familiar neighbors and unfamiliar heroes. They sailed thousands of miles across the sea and traded at various docks. Suddenly rich, suddenly ruined. Their stories are an unbeatable topic of conversation at the wine table, and are also the yearning in the hearts of "green" young people.
The sisters at the top of the road are so majestic that they are not inferior to men. Like men, they call themselves "father", have strong bodies and round arms, use bowls for drinking, raise their arms to punch, and their voices and momentum are not inferior to those of men. If you use your hands in the hotel, you will also help with fists and kicks. There was a time when it was fashionable to wear thick-soled plastic red slippers. On the road in the fishing port, the sound of the red slippers was accompanied by the noisy sound. Island women live their active and lively selves.
got together soon after work, and was ridiculed when there was someone in the room. It turns out that when they went to Ningbo some time ago, they were angered by being called "stupid" by the local thugs. They fought each other with fists and kicks and retreated. The sisters who had returned to the hotel were dissatisfied and dragged them out to fight again, and finally returned victorious. These "fathers" who failed to return at first were laughed at by their friends for a while.
Driving a boat and sailing on the sea is the dream of young people in the fishing port. One year, the university was on summer vacation, and one day it was the low tide season, with blue sky and white clouds, and the sea breeze blowing. Seven or eight of our classmates boarded the fishing boat anchored by Ah Hua at Dao Tau Kok. A young man from a fishing port rides the wind and waves toward his own sea.
The fishing boat sailed out of the copper tile gate, passed through the Tamsui Gate waterway, and arrived at the big sand head covered with golden sand, now called Huangcheng Beach. Ahua turned off the engine and the fishing boat floated on the sea in Shatou.
The sea is as flat as water and stretches as far as the eye can see. While chatting on the boat, the image of martial arts flying on the water suddenly appeared in my mind, so I suddenly thought: "Let's go to the stern of the boat and hold the rope and go into the sea. The boat will slowly start again, and people will float on the sea level with the help of the boat's power." , how is it? "
I was the first to hold the cable and put my feet on the stern of the boat. One by one, other students held the cable and climbed down. Everything is beyond imagination. It turned out that my classmates and I were holding the shadow rope with both hands, facing the blue sky, and half-body into the sea. But as soon as the boat started to move, as the oars rotated, the water at the stern of the boat rolled 360 degrees. We were not flying on the water, but rolling with the waves, and the seawater choked our mouths and noses.
Under the push of the sea water, the student above could not hold the reins, and his legs involuntarily stretched toward the head and shoulders of the student below. I tried my best to hold on to the knot at the end of the rope with both hands, but finally I couldn't hold on and let go, and my body suddenly sank into the sea. Then, the classmates who were holding the rope sank into the sea one by one, and no one was seen.
At that time, none of the dock boys had good water skills. In the sea water, I opened my eyes, held my breath, and reminded myself to "hold your breath and don't paddle randomly." Sure enough, in one breath, he emerged from the sea. The students also emerged from the sea one by one.
Ahua has stopped the boat, and the classmates on the boat are standing beside the boat, shouting for us to swim over. After some tossing in the water, everyone swam to the side of the boat. They were exhausted and could no longer climb onto the boat.
The classmates on the boat grabbed our arms and dragged us onto the boat. We lay scattered on the deck, like fish just caught out of the sea. The fishing boat has been soaked in the sea for many years, with oysters and other shells growing on the sides of the boat. Our skin had blood marks and was soaked in sea water, and it was only then that we felt the pain unbearable.
A seaside boy in the 1980s, simple, ignorant, fearless, and full of curiosity about the unknown world. Just like the brave petrel, "flying proudly" in the sea breeze on the vast sea.
四
The mountains and seas are vast, and the stars are brilliant, hiding the origins of our ancestors. The fate of the fishing port town is closely related to the ocean. The rough and complicated appearance of Daotoujiao contains unique images and emotions of the sea, which are warm, free and uninhibited, just like the hands of the sea breeze that rises again just for the waves.
The sea breeze remains the same, but the scenery is different. When school is over in the summer, today's children do not gather in groups, leave their schoolbags on the pier, and run to the beach to play; they speak Mandarin, not slang, and even the Shipu dialect may not be spoken well.
Over the years, as the city has grown, more and more docks have been built, cross-sea bridges have continued to extend, and Daotou Kok has lost its former glory. The stories and glory on the dock back then have long since dissipated in the wind, submerged in the hustle and bustle of the busy roads in the fishing port.
Internet celebrity noodle shop at the corner of Daotoujiao, photo by Zhu Hong
In Daotoujiao Old Street, there are sometimes two or three old people sitting on the street, blowing the sea breeze. Perhaps among them, there is the eldest brother and eldest sister who was a big influence in the dock back then and called himself "Dad". On the other hand, there is an unnamed topping noodle shop on the corner of Daotou. It has been spread by word of mouth and has become a well-known internet celebrity shop in recent years. Tourists from out of town often come here.
