The fashion industry has always been a battlefield without gunpowder. In Paris in the 1930s, there were two women whose names had to be mentioned: Chanel and Shaparelli. Nowadays, most people only know the name of Chanel, but everyone knows that Shaparelli was the real celebrity in the circle back then.
Shaparelli is Chanel's life rival.
The first half of his life to escape
Elsa Schiaparelli (Elsa Schiaparelli, 1890-1973) grew up in a noble family in Italy. Lack of parental care since childhood, she cried with the cook at home and said, "Perhaps, I am not their own." Her greatest pleasure at home is to follow her uncle astronomer, watching and reading the stars. Childhood curiosity and love for the vast night sky, after growing up, stitched stitch by stitch on Xiaparili's clothes.
The Big Dipper evening dress designed by Shapa Ruili / 1937
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The indifferent affection made the girl a rebellious girl. My parents forced myself to marry an old Russian man. How could the stubborn Shaparelli compromise? So she ran away from home and followed the psychic master Kroll to the world.
Shaparili’s young years have been ups and downs, and there are few images left.
Her husband is a psychic, but he is actually wanted by the FBI. Shaparili was fed up with the days of running away with him, and took their one-year-old daughter and ran away again.
Shaparelli and her daughter Gogo who are dependent on each other.
Departing for Paris
Shaparelli took her daughter to Paris, working in antique shops during the day, and frequenting the famous "Cow on the Roof" restaurant at night. It was also there that she met the noble man in her life, the number one among Parisian fashion designers-Paul Poiret.
Paul Pollet's design manuscript in 1914, it seems that it is not out of date.
"Cow on the Roof" ad: This is the first jazz-themed restaurant in Paris. It was also the stronghold of the avant-garde artists in Paris at that time, and it was full of stars.
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Shaparelli, who does not know sewing skills at all, was able to take a place in the Paris fashion industry with the promotion of her master and her unimaginable creativity. In 1927, she launched a fake collar sweater with its own "3D effect", setting off a sporty style in Paris, and even Vogue published the design of this fashionable newcomer.
Illustration of Shaparelli on Vogue in 1927: Shaparelli's unique optical illusion sweater was the most fashionable single product of the year.
Xiaparili put on the ancient Greek style illusion evening dress designed by herself. The folds on the skirt are all painted patterns.
Hollywood actress Marlene Dietrich is wearing Shaparelli, she is also one of Shaparelli's loyal customers.
This weird woman from Italy has overturned the definition of fashion in Paris. Each of her new series is full of curious elements. Before Xiaparili, fashion was just cloth; but after her, fashion was played as art.
Shaparelli’s "eye" cap, and the eyebrows are diamond accessories from Van Cleef & Arpels.
1935 Shapari Ruili's unimaginative design manuscript: pink and tender Lolita parasol, glass pleated fan, newspaper chintz hat and Easter egg makeup
Stunning powder
If you have read Woody Allen's "Café Society", you know that the bustling nightlife of high-class Yashi is the most classic scene in the 1930s.
"Coffee Commune"
"No matter where you are, the entire Manhattan Island is full of social nightlife. That period has always fascinated me. It was one of the most exciting times in the history of New York City."
— — Woody Allen
A feast, how can one lack a Chinese dress? In order to adapt to the trend, the Parisian fashion industry has popularized dinner clothes. And Shaparuili's "Shocking Pink" has become one of the favorite colors of celebrities when choosing dresses.
In 1934, the cover of Vogue was Shocking Pink evening dress by Shaparelli.
Shaparuili is the first designer to use a jacket with an evening dress.
, this flamboyant fan, was originally inspired by a pink diamond owned by American socialite Daisy Farrow. In the 1952 edition of "Moulin Rouge", the pink evening dress worn by Sasha Garbo is the classic Shapari powder.
In "Moulin Rouge (1952)", which won the Oscar for Best Costume Design Award, Sasha Garbo wore Shocking P
Shocking Pink evening dress / 1937: The Met Gala held in the Met Gala in 2012 Shaparui
One mountain can not tolerate two tigers
Shapari Ruili is aggressive, and she caught Chanel by surprise. Speaking of this competitor, Chanel was not even willing to say her name, and only called her "the Italian woman who makes clothes." She even pushed Shaparelli at a ball, causing the latter to almost die. In the fire.
Chanel (left) and Xiaparuili (right) with different styles, one elegant, one public.
However, how much Chanel hates her, the art world loves her. Dali designs fashion patterns for her, Andy Warhol designs glove ads for her, Picasso paints her new series into paintings...Xiaparelli turns art into fashion, interprets art with fashion, and becomes the first to master A female designer of "wearable art".
Dali and Shaparelli in France / 1950
Shaparelli perfume bottle design by Dali / 1943
z8 "Sun King" perfume bottle designed by "Sun Wang"
"Sun King" perfume is inspired by King Louis XIV.
"Lobster" skirt collaboration between Dali and Shapari Ruili: When the design was completed, Dali wanted to put mayonnaise on the lobster, even Shapar Ruili would not accept
z341 in the Windsor Duchess dress 8z
z341 , Is one of the most famous collaborations between Dali and Shaparili.
Dali and Xiaparili collaborated to design shoes and hats. The pockets on the evening dress are in the shape of lips.
"Tears" brooch designed by artist Jean Cocteau for Schaparelli / 1937: pearls symbolize tears.
Picasso's design by Schaparelli / 1937: The hat and brooch are the works of Schaparelli.
Nowadays we always see haute couture brands cooperating with artists, and Xiaparuili played this concept all over in the 1930s. She surpassed the traditional definition of a fashion designer. Artists regarded her as a peer, and Shaparili appeared in the headlines every day. In her heyday, she owned 8 studios and managed more than 400 employees.
"Time" Magazine / 1951: Shapar Ruili is the first female designer on the cover of "Time" magazine.
"Ms. Shaparelli is crazier and more creative than most contemporary designers. She is one of the few designers who are often described as'genius'."
- "Time"
live The Italian
from Paris has been working for work all the year round, coupled with two escape experiences when he was young, so Xiaparili is very eager to have a home for herself and her daughter. After stabilizing in Paris, she bought an apartment, and the home was filled with unique antique furniture.
Shapari not only plays art in design, but also a fan of art collection in private.
At home on weekdays, she loves to wear Chinese cheongsam, often leaning on the peculiar Napoleon III style two-seater sofa, conceived and designed.
Shaparelli’s apartment in Paris is lying on a Napoleon III-style violet two-seater sofa/Christie's
The two-seater sofa was supposed to be violet, and the wall is a huge Aubusson tapestry.
An Aubusson tapestry from the Louis XVI period in Shapar Ruili's home / Christie's
Shapar Ruili's home contains many unique 19th century triangle tables / Christie's
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In addition to antique furniture, Xiaparuili often receives paintings and sculptures created by artists for her, and she keeps them in her home or studio.
Xiaparelli’s classic birdcage, with two white column lights by the window, was created for her by the Swiss sculptor Giacometti.
Giacometti's white column lamp for Xiaparelli / 1935
Among all the paintings, she loves Picasso's "Cage Bird" for her. She once said in her autobiography: "In the bird cage, the white swan lowered his head in frustration and looked at the pink apple; the other black bird was waving his wings angrily, trying to challenge the sky."
Sharpa In Ruili’s private collection, her favorite painting is Picasso’s "Bird in the Cage"
Shapari Ruili loves this Picasso most because she sees her own shadow on the two birds: looking at the apple The sad white swan may symbolize Shaparelli’s young time-enjoying aristocratic life, but losing her freedom; and her heart is also trapped by an angry black bird who wants to break free from all the shackles.
Picasso's "Bird in the Cage" is at the home of Shaparelli
There is no second Shaparelli in Paris. Many traditions in the fashion industry today are attributed to Shapari Ruili: she held a new series launch in her fashion house; she was also the first designer to set themes for her fashion series, telling stories with fashion...
Shaparelli in the store in Place Vendôme
Vogue/1951: The classic Shaparelli is bold, quirky and elegant.
Shaparili’s charm and talent can be glimpsed in the light and shadow of the 1930s. The most regrettable thing is that soon after World War II, Shaparelli decided to retreat and concentrate on writing shortly after returning to Paris from the United States. The fashion industry thus lost the figure of Shaparuili, and Chanel, who had lost its rival, was able to make a comeback.
The retired Shaparuili no longer holds a bag in her hand, but autobiography.
After the war, Paris was once again full of light and shadow, but the name of Shaparelli was gradually forgotten. Her retiring seems to have proved what she once said: "When people stop plagiarizing you, it means that you are out of date." Shaparelli meets his opponent?
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