Xiamen has many interpretations in people's minds: art, laziness, gentleness, exquisiteness, simplicity...Of course, the delicious flavors everywhere in Xiamen are indispensable. After you have eaten the peanut soup and leek box for refreshing your stomach in the morning, the shacha barbecue and noodle paste for filling your stomach at noon, the duck porridge and flat food soup that warm your stomach at dusk, you think you have read all the delicious stories of this city , But I don't know that late night in Xiamen, there are more temptations that ordinary people can hardly resist.
benefited from the huge natural thermostat of the sea. Even at the end of November, Xiamen was not cold at night. When the night breeze started, I felt warm and gentle. It was the impression of a warm and fresh town in the eyes of the world. With such a street, Xiamen’s supper culture naturally grows and spreads like a spring breeze.
In Xiamen, no matter how dark the night is, as long as the crowd does not disperse, stories about food must be staged at any time. Amidst the noise of stalls, people gathered together with the aroma of food as a signal, and used the "Xiamen flavor" engraved into the bones of Xiamen people to spend one night after another in Xiamen.
pictures and text: yellow orange
breakfast nourishes the body, supper nourishes the soul. If early is a rare sense of ritual in the fast-paced city, then supper will liberate the fatigue after a day of hard work. Fortunately, in the middle of the night in each city, there are always several late-night canteens for people to enjoy and enjoy, and a warm light is lit in the dark corner. Most of the owners in the restaurant have experienced some stories. After returning to the ordinary, they are at ease in the pot stove and fireworks, waiting for the street for food, soothing their stomachs with wok food, calming their minds, and witnessing the tastes of life in the night.
Following the story of the early morning in the city last winter, Phoenix.com Travel Taste launched the "China in the Supper" series this summer night. When night fell, we walked into the stalls of restaurants and street corner shops with swaying lights and flames in various cities. Look for delicious masters with stories, enjoy the fireworks in the late-night canteen, and taste the tastes of life.
The mountains are surrounded by water, the sky is clear and blue, and the flowers and trees are sparse. These beautiful words are used to describe Xiamen, and each sentence is appropriate. Especially at dusk, the brilliant light seems to be diffused from the depths of the sea, making the world in front of you present a beautiful sense of beauty. When you enjoy a moment of leisure and a walk near the water, those clouds and shadows are even more distracting because of the sea or lake.
The beauty of Xiamen, the landscape is only one of them. What makes people like to go to the bones is the gentle atmosphere that permeates the alleys. This fresh and slow-tuned seaside city in the minds of tourists is hospitable, tolerant and caring. Many details have captured the hearts of countless people. Every wanderer who has been close to Xiamen in the distance will feel how happy it is to be born and grow up in Si. Especially those little gluttons and old gluttons who are well versed in the way of finding pleasure in the middle of the night must be fascinated by the fragrance alleys of Xiamen and forget the way home.
kiss string
no matter where you are in Xiamen, as long as you talk about supper, there must be a barbecue in the first echelon. The sudden popularity of the kiss skewers barbecue restaurant is a "singular event" in Xiamen's food industry in 2018. It is like a dark horse running out of the stock market, which always makes people wonder whether there is a consortium or fund hype behind it. After a careful visit, I learned that the popularity of the kiss is the credit of the "retailers" in the catering industry. Although it is only the meager power of the thin bamboo stick, it has gathered into the glory of the kiss.
As for the specific reasons for the rise of kisses, only Yuan Xiong knows. This young man at thirty is already accustomed to being called Lao Yuan by younger diners. As long as he doesn't travel far away, he will be in the store at 5 o'clock every afternoon to welcome visitors from all directions. Lao Yuan sometimes went to the kitchen to supervise the quality of the barbecue, and sometimes took the initiative to go to the table to chat with the diners and listen to their comments on the dishes with an open mind.
Don't look at the young old Yuan, but his struggle history can be called the vicissitudes of life. I have set up a street stall, delivered a courier, opened a steamed bun shop, worked as an insurance salesman, acted as an agent for children’s toys, and worked on the Internet...a child of an urban migrant worker who has only gone to junior high school, the difficult process of job hunting and constant pressure The experience of changing the guard is enough to destroy the confidence of a weak person a thousand times, but fortunately, Yuan is not weak. On a summer night in 2017, Lao Yuan at that time ran a barbecue stall and kissed skewers. He didn't want an old glutton who had eaten skewers in many skewers shops to throw him a word: Your chicken feet are the most unpalatable in Xiamen! Lao Yuan was ashamed and embarrassed, and even gave himself a task that seemed impossible: I will turn the most unpalatable grilled chicken feet into the best grilled chicken feet in the city.
After a month, he was like a researcher in a chemistry laboratory, trying all kinds of chicken feet ingredients available on the market, includingIncluding chicken feet from the United States, chicken feet from Brazil, and chicken feet from all over the country to test the tenderness of the ingredients. At the same time, we purchase spices from various countries, Indian curry, Indonesian spices...and try the fragrance. Lao Yuan even borrowed the moisturizing principle of cosmetics to find a seasoning that can lock the skin of chicken feet.
30 is an auspicious number for Lao Yuan. 30 days later, he successfully made grilled chicken feet with tender outside and tender inside, which became the number one sign of kiss skewers. At the age of 30, "standing", he succeeded with this sign. After tasting the sweetness of success, Yuan Yuan comprehensively upgraded his barbecue products, especially setting a "five-star" high standard for raw material procurement. Lao Yuan knew that Inner Mongolia produces high-quality mutton. Although Xiamen can also buy mutton as kebabs, he went straight to Inner Mongolia to find good sheep, and signed a purchase contract with the herdsman's home in Sunitzuo Banner, Xilinhot; Old Yuan heard the diners say that Nanjing did the best roasted duck tongue. He immediately flew to Nanjing to find the best-rated barbecue restaurant in the local area to learn from his teacher. He also signed the best source of duck tongue.
Some people say that serious women are the cutest, and serious men are not! Lao Yuan insisted on making the signature dishes from scratch, from one to two, two to three, three to four... Such a person would never succeed. The dishes of
kiss skewers are becoming more and more abundant. The fresh potato chips are grilled with a charming and crispy. The chicken cartilage is grilled to surprise people. The local seafood such as garlic oysters and grilled scallops has naturally become barbecue. The best on stage. The diners ate happily, so they gave the name of "Xiamen Luchuan Treasure Land".
When night falls, the diners can't bear the loneliness of their stomachs, coming from all directions through the streets and alleys, watching the white smoke floating on the streets in the early morning, the grease on the grill sizzling, and the sweet dream of this night, There is a landing.
Address: No. 849, Xiahe Road, Xiamen
Wuji Stir-Fried Tofu
There are tall and tall stone chestnut trees and elegant lemon eucalyptus along Shentian Road, Xiamen. These trees of the same age as Baijia Village are dotted in the old streets and alleys in the shape of a well. Only the dead leaves circling down occasionally remind people of a season drifting away.
Today, our lens has passed the historical vicissitudes for the time being. After all, in the Baijia Village in front of us, every lane and lane is vivid. Fresh Seafood Alley, Seasonal Melon and Fruit Alley, Four Seasons Vegetable Alley, Open-air Snack Alley... The daily flavor of Xiamen people is eye-catching, and the warm and pleasant Minnan dialect is in your eyes. Such visual and auditory senses constitute the traditional city life in Xiamen. "Living Specimen".
In Xiamen, the vegetable market filled with fireworks is also a sight not to be missed during the trip. The same goes for the Baijiacun vegetable market. There is no shouting, noisy, and hustle, and transactions are basically carried out in soft words. Most of the people here are regular customers, who are already familiar with each other and do not need to speak. The stall owner knows what to buy and how much to buy. There is nothing in the world that makes people's hearts hotter than such a tacit understanding. Perhaps this is the real reason why the people of Baijia Village are reluctant to move out of this neighborhood.
People who don't like cooking and cooking are definitely a fish in water in Baijia Village. Especially after nightfall, several stir-fried tofu shops let Baijiacun smell fragrant all night. Among them, Wu Ji stir-fried tofu is the favorite of night owls.
Stir-fried tofu is originally a dish similar to fried tofu on iron plate. However, in Xiamen, especially in Baijia Village, stir-fried tofu is far more than a dish, but a way of cooking, and even an attitude to life. Open air, low square tables, pans, a few dishes... the white-collar workers or blue-collar workers sitting around the table are now villagers living happily. They fry tofu, sea oysters, pike, and salty kuih while drinking beer and chatting. This is the most classic picture of stir-fried tofu. In this way, the people of Xiamen can gather together with friends with vast sea and sky, and Xiamen people use a vivid word to describe it: Huaxian. In addition to chatting, this small iron plate has also become a canteen where friends gather around. The kitchen masters on weekdays like to show their cooking skills at this time. The pale tofu was stained with attractive browning, and the gloomy little squid in the last second turned into a delicious purple...The cooking was wonderful like magic, the color of the ingredients changed to seduce the gluttons, and the rising aroma added oil and vinegar. . Intimate friends always praise the food while tasting. Under the water of beer, under the nourishment of praise, the flower of the dark night blooms brilliantly. The fire of the pan, like the fire of friendship, is the most blazing time in this life.
Wu Ji's dried bean curd is so famous, not because of what it excels, but because of its largest position and posture.Full of visual impact, there is no shortage of diners even after opening late at night. Smoke rises from the hot stove, and the clinking noises of food utensils and iron plates are mixed with chattering and laughter. This kind of excitement is not only on the table, but also human, and it contrasts with the dark night outside the market. joy. Address of
: No. 57, Baijiacun Road, Xiamen City
Hongji Fresh Congee
Hubin Sili is a residential area built after the establishment of the Xiamen Special Economic Zone. The gathering of people gave birth to delicious food. After Hubin Silisha tea noodles became a famous brand of Xiamen snacks, Hongji fresh porridge was also famous for being the leader of Ludao night snacks.
is like the tender night in Xiamen. When the crowd fades in the middle of the night, it can draw a perfect end to the late night. It is not a big bowl of fresh porridge. Whether it is the midnight of the scorching heat or the twilight of the cold winter, Hong Ji Fresh Congee stands in a corner of the residential area with a virtuous attitude waiting for the return of the night, giving people an extremely warm stare.
Chef A Dong told me that when Hongji Fresh Congee opened seven years ago, he focused on Zhaoan cat porridge, with thick shell shrimp, shark, mackerel, large squid, sea oysters, secret meat, pork loin, Pork liver, pork belly, nine kinds of ingredients for porridge, only add a teaspoon of salt water, no other seasonings, rely on good ingredients to improve the freshness, a bowl of cat porridge is clear and delicious. Today this signature snack is still booming, but the variety has expanded to dozens, and it is more appropriate to call it a seafood stall.
Regarding the origin of cat porridge, Adong introduced that there is a very touching legend in his hometown of Zhao'an. In the past, the daughter-in-law who had just passed the house usually had to do housework, wait on the in-laws and husband first, and support themselves. There was a man who loved his new wife as much as his life, but he could not love his wife in front of his elders. In the name of raising a cat, he intercepted some fish, shrimp, oysters, and meat from the dinner, and quietly cooked supper for his wife after a hard day. It's today's cat porridge. It fits the mood of drinking porridge late at night, warming your heart and stomach.
In addition to the porridge, the seafood in the store cannot be ignored. The encounter between the chef and the fresh seafood, coupled with the full attentiveness and sincerity of the cook, makes cooking like a beautiful encounter, which is always pleasant. This kind of happiness often appears for A Dong. He peels the shrimps and chops them to make shrimp rolls. He will ingeniously sandwich a piece of green leafy vegetables, and then deep fry them in a frying pan until golden. The green leaves are faintly in the middle, which not only adds beauty, but also enriches the taste. A Dong said that fried shrimp rolls must be served with plum sauce to relieve the greasiness. The plum sauce in the store is made by himself, and the plums are from Zhao'an, the hometown of Adong's beloved. A Dong thinks that although he runs a street food stall, he must be famous for his delicacy at any time.
is the same for seafood, as is for all kinds of meat dishes. Some of the signature dishes of Hongji Fresh Congee are meaty, such as braised large intestines. This kind of food that makes loved ones want and hates to avoid, has become his family’s most acclaimed Chinese dish. Some diners faintly tasted the taste of pork belly; another signature dish mixed with duck intestines is popular with its unique crispness, sweet and sour taste.
A small fresh porridge shop, with its sincerity and craftsmanship, has become a worry for people in the middle of the night, an endless yearning for travellers, and the subtle taste on the tip of the tongue. I'm afraid I can only experience it in person. Address of
: No. 48, Hubin Sili, Xiamen,
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This article was originally published by Phoenix.com. Some pictures are from the Internet.
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