Zhang Ning resigned.
Those who don’t care about the fashion circle don’t know that this person has ever existed. Those who care about the fashion circle hope that this person has never existed.
And I successfully picked up the melon that had been thrown to the ground by the next door in 3 seconds, and patted the ashes.
You don’t care, we in the entertainment industry want to eat it!
She, Zhang Ning, is a Chinese-Australian and fashion practitioner. At the age of 28, she became the editor-in-chief of "Vogue Clothing and Beauty", the first fashion magazine in China, and entered the core circle of China's Vanity Fair.
Note: "vogue clothing and beauty" is also called "vogue china", hereafter it is conveniently abbreviated as "vc"
However, in just three years of tenure, she has created a series of jaw-dropping "good results".
It was she who used sandbags, iron pipes, clamps and curtain fabrics bought at the furniture market to turn the famous vogue fashion festival into a grass-roots team.
Regardless of whether she is a celebrity, a movie queen, a supermodel, or Anna Wintour, the "devil" of the fashion industry who flew in from the United States specially, when she comes to our sister Zhang's site, she still has to look concave at the construction site.
She was also the one who overcame all opinions to let Zhang Zifeng jump to the next level (previously only Dahua was eligible), which made the seniors who were still queuing up and holding their number plates look at each other with big eyes.
For other senior actresses, this is a provocation and insult to their status;
For Zhang Zifeng himself, this is tantamount to a flattery, and the finished film is hardly good-looking;
For " vogue", it seems that there is no benefit...
all know that the fashion industry is a difficult game, and it is an art to take into account the interests of multiple parties.
But how have you ever seen such an operation that offends everyone?
Even if we understand that Ms. Zhang Ning is essentially a foreigner, she is new to domestic entertainment and has no connections and no knowledge of routines.
But as an editor-in-chief, she was a bit embarrassed at her job.
What will happen to the world when Zhang Ning invites top celebrity Dahua?
You will get Michelle Yeoh who plays the role of a feather duster, Zhou Xun who cosplays Tong Xiangyu and makes up, and Li Bingbing who doesn't know whether she is wearing curtains (she really loves curtains) or a Northeast flower quilt.
What will happen to the world when Zhang Ning hires a top model?
shalom harlow knows.
htmlThe legendary supermodel of the 1990s, the witch who ruled the catwalk for 30 years, is known as a ruthless character with various charms.
Anthracene, here she was abused like this:
What will happen to the world when Zhang Ning wants to play with Chinese style?
She will ask models and celebrities to wear clothes that have nothing to do with the theme, put on makeup with unknown meaning, and stand in front of a background that looks like a calendar landscape painting to take photos.
Please note that these are not three covers of the same issue, but three covers that are nearly half a year apart. She used the same idea to mix up the three issues.
Later, I don’t know if she was scolded so much that she lost confidence in the photographers outside, so Zhang Ning simply went on stage by herself.
Isn’t it just about taking pictures? My sister also worked as a fashion blogger.
So we have another cuckoo who strangely crosses his legs facing the audience and transforms into a black-bone chicken spirit on the street.
How to say, maybe it is in response to what Lao Na said, every other line is like a mountain.
Bloggers who have played with new media for a long time are a bit reluctant to come to the complex power field of print media.
Having said that, the influence of "vc" itself is far less than the authoritative versions of English, Italian and French. In addition, the domestic fashion industry started late, which means that the breadth and depth of the magazine are relatively small, and the requirements for the editor-in-chief should not be so demanding.
But why is it so difficult for its editor-in-chief?
Both the French and British versions of "vogue" are benchmark versions with a long history and high style.
Let's start with two people, Anna Wintour and Zhang Yu.
Anna is the devil who rules the fashion world. This is everyone's consensus.
But what many people don’t know is that her influence is not only reflected in creating a group of loyal readers, but also in creating a group of editors who use herself as a template.
In 1988, Anna, who had worked hard in the industry for many years, became the editor-in-chief of the American version of "vogue", symbolizing the beginning of a dynasty.
Soon, she changed the fashion world forever with two covers:
In the first picture, the model was wearing a $10,000 brand product, but the trousers vaguely exposed were a pair of $50 jeans. .
This is Anna's first cover, and it is also the first time that jeans, a popular clothing item, appear on the cover of "Vogue". This marks Anna's ambition to completely open the aloof fashion world to the society;
The second cover, the cover character It was the singer Madonna who was on the cusp of being popular at that time.
Nothing unusual at first glance, right? Yet it was also a milestone in fashion history: the first time a celebrity (rather than a model) graced the cover.
Anna thus started the tradition of celebrity enthronement, which symbolizes the surrender of style and aesthetics to traffic, and also creates a strong connection between the originally closed fashion industry and the entire Vanity Fair.
Anna has created many firsts, and even created many weird invisible "rules":
For example, an editor should have a signature hairstyle that remains unchanged for thousands of years, and wear sunglasses no matter how dark it is when watching a show, etc.
Zhang Yu's "Sassoon hair" and Zhang Ning's blue hair are both personal labels
Zhang Yu, who has been the editor-in-chief since the publication was founded in 2005, is a language and law student, and he did not excel in aesthetics and artistry during his tenure.
However, she faithfully continued Anna's business thinking and even played it to the extreme.
It was Zhang Yu who single-handedly set the extremely high entry threshold for "vc". Either
or
, it must be a big flower with top performance and influence.
Either, he must be a superstar with international influence.
The lowest standard has to be Grand Slam queen Sun Li, triple gold best actress Zhou Dongyu, 85-year-old Liu Yifei who entered Hollywood...
Zhang Yu's standards are actually even worse than Anna's .
Anna advocates traffic and diversity. She will not hesitate to put Internet celebrity Jin Jie, tennis queen Serena Williams, singing star Yaya, and even Zheng Haoyan, who became famous with "Squid Game", on the cover.
These candidates, who seem to have nothing to do with fashion, reflect her grasp of the pulse of the new era, and can also explain why she entrusted Zhang Ning with important tasks.
Zhang Ning has rich experience in new media and has a keener perception of new things, which may open up new paths for the dying print media.
The joy of working with Zhang Ning is to look to the future.
As for Zhang Yu, she is a conservative person who cannot lack starlight, performance, and status. The set of rules of
deeply binds "vc" to the entertainment industry, making it the ultimate stage for star competition.
Having said this, you should be able to understand why Zhang Zifeng’s candidacy caused a stir:
Her celebrity position is not up to the established standards, which actually dilutes the gold content of the cover of "vc", and this is a great offense to other celebrities. .
Zhang Ning’s logic of praise is indeed difficult to understand.
If we only consider awards, aren’t Golden Rooster actress Zhang Xiaofei and Golden Image actress Sammi Cheng more popular and fashionable?
But her fault is not actually innovation, but every new step she creates accurately breaks people's rules and touches people's cakes. The final reflection of
is her other major Achilles heel: sponsors .
According to the media "wwd", the amount of sponsorship for a cover of "vc" is as high as 3 million, and the brand is willing to pay because of the high style and influence of this magazine.
The cover characters of "vc" often wear clothing of sponsored brands.
However, Zhang Ning failed to get cover sponsorship many times during her tenure, resulting in a rare vacancy.
China’s fashion editors do not deal with clothes, but with people, money, and rich people.
In the era when Zhang Yu was in charge of "vc", she could always invite the most popular and prestigious celebrities to the event, and she could always make the event high-end and high-quality. More importantly, she could always let the top luxury parties do it for them. Pay the bill.
In contrast, in the curtain ceremony mentioned above, Zhang Ning could only attract a few sports and leisure brands...
Picture source | Fox Factory torture
This actually affects not the image and grade of the magazine, but directly shakes it. Its lifeblood.
When a fashion magazine is no longer recognized by the core brands in the industry, or is no longer even regarded as a valuable cooperation platform, its road has basically come to an end.
There is no knowledge more difficult than workplace culture. If there is, it is Chinese workplace culture.
Obviously, this made Zhang Ning, who grew up abroad, seriously acclimatized.
Her failure and return is actually the story of a "banana girl" who was severely beaten by the human society.
Reading her "resignation letter" carefully, it is not difficult to taste a kind of innocent confidence that only children who grew up in foreign countries can have:
Handwritten, bilingual, it cannot be said to be insincere.
But she frequently "changes", "achieves", and "takes the forefront" and so on, which makes people wonder if she has no idea about what she does.
When a new human being enters the scheming human society, there are no more than two results:
If this person has no idea, then she will become a puppet of capital;
If this person has an idea, then she will be squeezed out. The abandoned child of capital.
I don’t need to say more about what kind of Zhang Ning it is.
To be honest, leaving aside the final effect, her ideas have always been very full:
uses new models, promotes new generation stars, and introduces various cutting-edge technologies and media.
The old-school Zhang Yu doesn't do this. Her work has been consolidating the hierarchy of celebrities and safeguarding the interests of capital.
But she is strong. She is well versed in Chinese sophistication, knows how to check and balance all parties, and also secretly raises the price for herself.
For example, when she appointed a top-notch former domestic entertainment star who is now a practitioner in the textile industry, she would pair her with Kendall Jenner, a popular model, to prevent him from taking the leading role alone.
And the first time the four characters were crowned, they took four bigger hands and placed him in the lowest position.
This is a very cunning method.
She makes people understand that no matter how popular you are, it all depends on your face. It is she who has the final say whether or not to give, and how much to give.
Another example is that she asked Yang Mi and other 85 flowers to appear in the supplements of "vc", but only Liu Yifei appeared in the main issue.
This is equivalent to a vague promise: "The magazine recognizes your influence, and as long as you have actual results, you can be published."
Painting cakes in exchange for loyalty is the best deal in the world.
As a result, she attracted a large number of traffic stars as her platform, and many things about using money and people fell into place.
Zhang Yu is the only editor-in-chief on earth who truly considers himself a "devil".
But this is actually a good point. She is more suitable to play the devil than the word "editor" which is more culturally related.
This business method is actually too old school, too commercial, and too shady.
Moreover, Zhang Yu has not made much achievements in aesthetics, and his taste is old-school.
All of this made the previous "vc" infinitely closer to a club of the powerful class, and the fashion circle acted according to the officialdom.
html In 2019, ab, who had been idle in "vc", suddenly appeared on the cover of the American version of "vogue". Although it only occupied a corner of the group cover, it was still the highest version that a domestic female star had ever appeared on.
But in Zhang Yu’s view, this is a taboo in the workplace: “leapfrogging”.
She liked the emoticon of a netizen p on the Internet and said "I'm so depressed", and the p on her mobile phone case was the "Vogue" by ab.
Another time, supermodel Xi Mengyao was invited to participate in the "vc" event. Afterwards, she posted a beautiful solo photo, but Zhang Yu left a message warning her.
This is another workplace taboo: overshadowing the leader.
So Xi Mengyao immediately hurriedly made corrections, taking photos, cueing activities, and writing a short composition to thank the leader, Ms. Zhang.
If I remember correctly, these two incidents were on the hot searches when they happened. People were worried about the two actresses, feeling that Zhang Yu would ban them at any time.
The key is here:
Zhang Yu may not be able to block a person, but he can always make people feel this kind of fear.
Thinking about it again, Zhang Ning thought of the word "devil" too superficially.
relies on her hair and sunglasses to imitate her seniors, which is the most basic student attitude. In fact, she is completely unable to control the set of rules created by her seniors.
It was previously rumored that the reason why Gong Li had not appeared in "vc" for many years was because she insisted on using her own regular photographer, and Zhang Yu refused to give in.
During Zhang Ning's tenure, the stalemate between the two parties finally ended with "VC" surrendering, and Gong Huang got his wish.
This incident reflects the essential difference between the two generations of editors.
Zhang Ning couldn't control the temper of the internal entertainment, so he could only be suppressed by the internal entertainment.
After the controversy surrounding Zhang Zifeng’s October issue last year, the magazine held the most eye-catching annual fashion event in the second month.
As a result, apart from the endless curtains, there were only a few stars that night, which showed that there were many internal entertainments that refused to give her face.
Compared with the big flowers, 85 flowers, movie queens, and movie kings that filled the screen in Zhang Yu's era, I can't believe that this is an event organized by the same team.
Let’s take a look at the annual ceremony of “w Chinese Edition” which was just launched last year:
Not to mention the various actresses and Tsing Yi present, they invited the world’s number one actress Huppert and Japanese director Hirokazu Kore-eda to the scene...
It turns out that everyone who asked for leave didn't really have something to do, but had more important activities to attend.
Afterwards, some netizens left messages on Zhang Yu’s social media, criticizing Zhang Ning’s incompetence and missing the glory of the past.
Zhang Yu, who has always been proud, also responded enthusiastically: Thank you for your words.
But in my opinion, Zhang Ning may have done a poor job, but Zhang Yu has nothing to miss.
One of them is a stupid young man, and the other is a big leader. Too much style is not good in the end.
When Zhang Yu voluntarily resigned, in addition to having his own new career ambitions, he probably also realized that his old-school route was no longer adequate in the new era.
According to media reports under "vogue", Zhang Ning's new career will be launched in the field of film and television, which may also mean that she will withdraw from the fashion industry.
It is not difficult to imagine how the three years of working in domestic entertainment have damaged her confidence and fighting spirit. Fortunately, she has a good attitude unique to foreign children and should be able to restart her life soon.
She was indeed not capable enough. Three fires could not burn the tower of internal entertainment, so she left sadly.
But to the old power games, she did what all young people do:
despised and resisted.
Many people say that Zhang Ning is very supportive of domestic brands and designers, and will go to shows that few people care about, and uses her reputation to support newcomers, even if she is a newcomer herself.
Picture source @mars amateur fashion review
And after saying goodbye to her, we still have questions. Where will
internal entertainment go next? Old rules are broken, new ways of playing are resisted, who can take on this mess?
Maybe I am overthinking it.
, a magazine that carries countless ambitions to pursue fame and fortune, is not meant for us to read.
