"Suits must be made of materials... In the summer, Paris, Veritas, and in winter, flannel, gabardine, and Chevy."
Recently, have you been obsessed with the TV series "Flowers"? , the male protagonist Abao played by Hu Ge in the play, under the arrangement of his uncle You Benchang, asked Ningbo Hongbang tailors to tailor a set of gimmick suits.
The scene of the TV series "Flowers"
With just a few tweaks by Hong Bang Tailor's skillful hands, Hu Ge's image in the drama has been upgraded from a street youth to an elegant gentleman with overwhelming popularity.
It is said that a man relies on his clothes and a horse relies on his saddle. "Flowers" has aired for less than 10 episodes. In Fenghua, Ningbo, the birthplace of red gang tailors, the phone number of Wang Xingchang's tailor shop has become a hotline for booking Hu Ge's suits. Wang Xiaofang, the owner of
Western Clothing Store, started his apprenticeship at the age of 16 and is now the heir to the national intangible cultural heritage Red Gang tailor. In the past two days, his personal WeChat account has been frequently @@ed by men who want to customize "Hu Ge's flannel suit."
Can you make a flannel suit like Hu Ge?
"While you are talking to me, there are several people on WeChat who are customizing Hu Ge's same flannel suit with me."
Wang Xiaofang is the sixth generation owner of Wang Xingchang Tailor, and there are a total of seven or eight masters in the store. , makes two to three hundred suits a year.
Photo courtesy of the interviewee
Hongbang tailoring began in the late Qing Dynasty and the early Republic of China. Hongbang was the general name for the Western-style service industry at that time.
Ningbo people have a tradition of making a living in Shanghai. The "suit craze" in Shanghai has brought a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to smart and capable Ningbo tailors, and they have flocked to Shanghai.
In 1891, Wang Ruimo, a native of Ningbo, founded the "Wang Rongtai" clothing store in Shanghai. In 1896, Jiang Liangtong, a native of Fenghua, went to Shanghai and opened the "Hechang Western Clothing Store".
In 1910, Wang Caiyun, a native of Fenghua, opened the most luxurious woolen suit store "Rongchangxiang" with three floors and ten rooms on Nanjing Road at the time, becoming the most famous professional clothing store in Shanghai.
Photo provided by interviewee
Wang Caiyun also brought many apprentices, and they opened clothing stores on Nanjing Road one after another. Wang Xingchang Western Clothing is one of them, and Wang Xiaofang is the sixth generation head of Wang Xingchang.
Wang Xingchang's Western Clothing Store in Xikou, Fenghua, orders two to three hundred suits a year. In addition to local regular customers, there are also customers from Shanghai, Hangzhou and other places.
Customers who come to order suits include both men and women. Wang Xiaofang usually communicates with the customer first to understand what kind of work they do and what kind of occasion they need to wear suits, and then recommends fabrics based on their personal body shapes.
Photo provided by interviewee
"People who are taller and fatter are not suitable for plaid fabric suits, because the plaid will make them look fatter."
"Some men have larger bellies, so when cutting, they need to be Leave enough room for your belly, and the clothes should be worn to look slimming, and the back must be designed to be slim."
In addition to men, the store also has a large amount of custom-made women's suits. Wang Xiaofang said: "Many people think that women only have shoulder-skimming clothes. Shoulder pads should be placed inside the jacket. In fact, women with flat shoulders need thin shoulder pads when making suits so that the clothes can lie flat."
html What does a suit worth 3.79 million yuan look like?
The customization cycle for a suit usually starts at 15 days, during which it will have to undergo two fittings and adjustments. The cheapest suit in the
store costs 6,000 to 7,000 yuan apiece. The most expensive suit Wang Xiaofang made took a year and was worth 790,000 yuan. The main reason was that the fabric contained expensive sapphires.
Photo provided by interviewee
In addition to customized suits, national fashion clothing has become very popular in the past two years. Wang Xiaofang is also developing traditional clothing customization business, such as Chinese men's clothing, women's cheongsam, etc. He also presided over the design of national style themed clothing. Sportswear.
Recently, Wang Xiaofang is also following the drama "Flowers". Although there is only one scene about the red gang tailor in the drama, Wang Xiaofang repeatedly praised: "Teacher You Benchang knows about suits! Flannel is good for making suits in winter. , and of course cashmere."
Photo provided by interviewee
In a hundred years of practice, Hongbang tailors have explored the craft ideas with the "four skills", "nine postures" and "sixteen-character formula" as the core, forming the "visual and mental arithmetic, special "Shape correction, renovation and hole filling" and other skills.
Wang Xiaofang said that the four skills refer to knife skills, hand skills, machine skills, and ironing skills. Among them, "knife skills" with the cutting principle as the core and acupuncture as the representative "Hand skills" are the most complex, and "hot skills" featuring pushing, returning, and pulling out are the most effective.
The nine postures are threatening posture, fat posture, nest posture, concave posture, warping posture, remaining posture, round posture, The bending position and the bending position are nine types of modeling characteristics of different parts of the human body summarized by Hongbang Tailor.
The sixteen-character formula is flat, obedient, smooth, straight, round, ascending, stiff, full, thin, loose, even, and soft. , lively, light, nesty, and tight, are the standards that embody the effect of ready-made clothing, corresponding to the "nine trends."
Photos provided by interviewees
In the history of Chinese clothing, along with the evolution of clothing from the west to the east, red gang tailors set off a revolution in China A profound clothing revolution.
They tailored China's first suit, produced the first Chinese tunic suit, opened the first suit store, established the first clothing school, and compiled the first clothing monograph, providing Chinese clothing has made contributions to the modernization.
Source: Chao News
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