Sohu Entertainment Bulletin (Wei Jie/Text)
"I didn't expect that the first rise of domestic entertainment was makeup." Actors dressed in ancient costumes are out of the circle, and the topic of no "ugly puppets" in 2022 has caused heated discussions. After that, " Long Moon Ember ", "Fox Fairy Little Matchmaker", and " Seven O'clock Auspicious " all received a lot of attention due to makeup, and the discussion about "the rise of domestic entertainment makeup" continued to rise.
took this opportunity, Sohu Entertainment learned from the people in the industry about the real life of the makeup artists and costumers of the crew, and heard that they had to face chaos, insist on work, and look forward to and think about the industry.
stylists "struggling" in the crew
makeup artist Mu Qing's work on the crew is very tense, because "the crew is a particularly chaotic place." Personnel need to report the progress in real time in the group chat.
"For example, if you start makeup at six o'clock, female artists in costume dramas have styling time within two hours, and male artists in about an hour." Mu Qing explained.
The timing starts from the moment the artist steps into the dressing room. The signal is a message from the actor's assistant director in the group: "XX arrives, start makeup."
But the reality is that plans are often disrupted.
"Some artists will be late, and some artists will put on a mask", when the artist enters the door with a mask on, Mu Qing will prevent the actor's assistant director from sending a message, "Because he can't start makeup immediately after entering the door, and he has to rest a period of time".
If the news is still released, Mu Qing will continue to report in the group, for example: a certain artist has just put on the mask, and now officially starts to make up.
"Every minute of delay seems to be small, but if the start of filming is delayed, it is a major event. The director will hold a meeting at night to hold him accountable." Here, Mu Qing is always vigilant of being thrown on his head.
At the same time, emotional intelligence is particularly important on the set.
Mu Qing once witnessed the petty temper of an actor.
Mu Qing said that because the artist stayed up late and got up early because of filming, he already had symptoms of a cold and sore throat, and his temper became bad. On the way to make up, the executive director came in with the medicine and exchanged a few words, the artist behaved fairly mildly. Then another staff member came in and asked, "How long are we here?" The artist was visibly angry.
"It was already finished, she stood up, she sat back after hearing this, and she just left after chatting for 20 minutes." Mu Qing did not dare to expose the real situation, so he could only pretend to be a wooden man standing in the corner, "If Intervening, even if it wasn't your business at the beginning, it might become your business."
Reuters
The film crew of the Korean drama "French Money" will also disrupt the crew's plans.
"Rolling shows are quite common now, and the actors also have variety show schedules." In this case, in order to ensure the actors' appearance in other schedules, Mu Qing could not shave the actors' temples, hairline, or even shaving. It is not possible to trim eyebrows.
Sometimes, the actor can't even catch up with the shooting, so his role will be postponed. "If the director is angry, he may directly delete the entire scene and replace it with another scene." Mu Qing said with emotion.
The costume designer Song Song hates unexpected situations.
encountered a sudden rental or modification of a prop, Song Song could not guarantee to complete the task. "The time is too tight. It's not my business if something goes wrong, but disrupting the plan will make people very irritable." Song Song said helplessly.
"The crew is like a battlefield", Song Song admits that this statement does not seem wrong.
makeup, where is the "roll"? Song Song, a costume designer at
, said frankly that the style, overall tone, and out-of-the-circle of the costumes in other dramas will be discussed at the internal meeting of the crew. "When you encounter a better or newer style, everyone will learn and learn from it, but you must not copy it."
Song Song mentioned that "Long Moon Ember" has recently received attention due to the "Dunhuang style", " With reference to works of this style, there may be more in the future."
"In fact, the current Dunhuang style, exotic style, Han Dynasty Tang Dynasty restoration style, sometimes it will be mistaken, but this is actually our culture. "
Song Song hopes that the use of these styles and concepts in the series can popularize traditional Chinese culture and history to the public.
In addition to the concept, the stylist will also work hard with the plot.
Song Song explained that the modeling team will get the script and character biography in advance for script reading. They need to divide the script into stages according to the character's identity, personality, traits and other factors, and then design the style according to different stages.
"If the director needs two or three sets at each stage, we will prepare a few more sets for him to choose."
The director will also ask for makeup. "In the more brilliant scenes, he may pay more attention. For example, he would like to have a thicker makeup and a tougher overall style, etc. Some directors of even specify the position of the hair. " Mu Qing explain.
And behind the styling details that the audience can't notice, there may be stylists who are fighting at night.
As a costumer, Song Song pays attention to many details when watching dramas, such as whether the headgear is upturned, whether there are bumps on the back of the hair, and whether there are pills on the clothes.
She once used a fabric that, under normal conditions, looked like it was pilling. In order to solve the visual pilling problem, "can only use a blade or a small yarn to cut a little bit after shooting every day." It took more than an hour to clean half of the clothes.
makeup artist Mu Qing is most concerned about the actor's eyelashes and eyebrows. "The lighting and even exposure during shooting, plus the filter grinding in the later stage, can't see the eye shadow foundation at all, only the eyelashes and eyebrows can be seen clearly." Will analyze and study other people's cases.
In order to make the makeup look better, the actors will also work hard.
Mu Qing said bluntly, "Female artists will always pay attention to their status." If your skin is puffy and your skin is not in good condition, you will wear a mask on the road to prevent you from taking ugly photos. Male artists will prepare shoulder pads, muscle clothing, and heightening insoles in advance according to their own conditions.
The picture has nothing to do with the content
"Male artists may come wearing muscle clothes, because some people are too thin, they think it can hold up their clothes more, stand up their characters, and look better."
Find a way out of the restrictions There are generally two situations in the team.
First, contact the team that often cooperates, know the basics, and directly coordinate the schedule to enter the group. The other is that other people recommend or submit resumes. A stylist's resume might be a table listing the titles, dates, and even visuals for each play.
"Actually, we pay more attention to what you have done, your position, age and reputation." Mu Qing explained that it is not to discriminate against age, but if you are young, it will give people the impression of being unaffordable and lacking work experience. . Even if
is selected, they will encounter various constraints during the shooting, and the first one is the problem of funding.
Most of the costume dramas have to show the styling pictures. "After communicating with the director, the styling team will show the director to see the pictures. After the pictures are completed, the director will make some outfits that he thinks are good."
Although it is possible that these outfits The shape was not used in the end, but tailoring, fabrics, embroidery, and 3D printing will all be included in the cost.
Canglan Jue's official shape
Song Song revealed that the price of some satin materials or yarns is particularly high.
Satin and yarn are also particularly afraid of damage, but if the hook is a little bit, the whole garment cannot be used. To make a skirt, it takes about seven to eight meters of satin and yarn, and more grand clothes may take more than ten meters.
"Actually, the costume works that can come out of the circle, generally have sufficient funds."
At the same time, due to the tight schedule of the crew and the full shooting schedule, it is difficult to change the style frequently.
For example, in costume dramas, actors wearing hats are often shot with non-stick headgear. "Therefore, it takes time to modify the hats and no hats."
Everyone sticks to the headgear for 15 to 20 minutes. If the actor uses his own bangs, it also takes 10 to 15 minutes. The makeup change should be determined before the start of the game, taking into account the plot, time, venue and other factors.
Of course, aside from the styling team, it's also important that the actors stay in shape.
"Under the high-intensity work of the crew, people will be tired and ugly." But Mu Qing has also met artists who stayed up late to drink and eat seafood the night before the shooting.
On the second day, when he entered the dressing room with his unrecognizable double eyelids after surgery, Mu Qing could only identify the artist through his assistant. In this case, Mu Qing believes that it is no longer a problem that can be solved by makeup. Listening to the artist's request "Teacher help me lose weight", Mu Qing felt helpless.
Stylists are used to balance and innovation in their work. But sometimes, the appearance of ugly men in ancient costumes is helpless for them.
Off-screen, there will also be a " stereotype " of color usage.
Song Song explained that clothing has always been a variety of colors, but it is inevitable that several colors or makeup have been stylized, such as "red and white must be indispensable in costume dramas, red is always for publicity characters, and white is for cool characters. In sweet pet dramas, there must be yellow, green, and pink."
Still, stylists are looking for differences in stylization. "Everyone will choose different materials and shades according to the plot, and even break some stereotypes."
Song Song took "Acquaintance with Jun Chu" as an example. "The foxes here broke the inherent impression in "Three Lives, Three Worlds and Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms", because the fox family in "Meeting Junchu" lives in the cold northern region, and the style of the clothes is designed to be heavier and the colors are also different. Deeper.
"Maybe the appearance in the play can't satisfy everyone, but everyone is maintaining the background of the characters and trying to make innovations."
Song Song still has expectations for the future, she can feel the gradual difference in the requirements of the crew refinement and refinement.
As a Hanfu enthusiast, in her spare time, she will pay attention to the styles of Hanfu bloggers and models, and always exercise her inspiration and sensitivity.
"There will definitely be more and more makeups going out of the circle, and the makeup will also be more diversified." Song Song can feel that now some crews have begun to increase their investment and attention to clothing, "I I will also make more good creations myself."
