[Text/Observer.com columnist Chen Feng] It’s the Spring Festival again. For those who are in a foreign country, this time is particularly suitable for homesickness. In fact, compared to previous years, I went back more times last year. I went back twice in the spring and summer o

[Text/Observer.com columnist Chen Feng]

It is the Spring Festival again. For those who are in a foreign country, this time is particularly suitable for homesickness.

In fact, compared to previous years, I went back more times last year. I went back twice in the spring and summer of the first year and stayed in Shanghai for a total of 4 months. I have never stayed in Shanghai for such a long time since I left Shanghai. In the past, I always came and went in a hurry, but this time I stayed for a long time and got back a little bit of the feeling of being a Shanghainese, a feeling I had not seen for a long time.

originally returned to Shanghai twice every spring and autumn, but the epidemic interrupted it three years ago. Mom kept asking, when will you come back? I explained it to her countless times, but it still felt like a slipping old record player.

In January, the country opened family visit visas, so I quickly applied. However, the opening is gradual, and there are strict quantity restrictions. You are not allowed to queue directly at the visa office, and you can only make an appointment online. As soon as one o'clock arrives every morning, within a few seconds, all the places for that day are taken up. After several days of scrambling, I learned how to fill out all the contents in the electronic form in advance, and then submit it at the right time. I quickly grabbed the appointment time and submitted it again. All steps must be completed in 2-3 seconds. Finally, I finally got a reservation, but it was a month and a half later.

I have no choice but to explain to my mother. She still didn't understand why she had to wait so long. But at least we have time, instead of waiting endlessly.

finally arrived and respectfully delivered the materials to the window of the visa office. The service attitude of the staff is very good. They have seen too many people who are eager to return home to visit their relatives. Their stories are generally similar. They feel the same way, but they are unable to do anything because of lack of materials. Sure enough, something was missing. The staff was very accommodating, "You go home and pick it up quickly. I'll put the materials aside for a while, but they must be sent before 4 pm today, otherwise you will have to get a new number, and I can't help you."

hurriedly rushed forward. Rush home and send over the materials that need to be supplemented.

Since there are not many places every day, the consulate is very considerate. All applications sent in are processed at an expedited speed, and the visas are issued quickly.

The next step is to buy a plane ticket quickly. The direct flight from Vancouver to Shanghai originally cost only about 700 Canadian dollars round trip, but in early 2023 it will cost 4,000 Canadian dollars one way, which is too expensive. It’s more than half the price of taking a detour to Hong Kong, and it’s a one-way trip. Now that I'm retired, I have more time and can be more flexible on my return trip. Buying in two sections can also relieve some of the pressure on fares.

I have never been on Cathay Pacific before, and I learned a lot this time. Cathay Pacific flight attendants have two uniforms. As a result, different levels of flight attendants have different uniforms. There are not many airlines I have flown on, but Air Canada, KLM, Lufthansa, British Airways, United Airlines, and Delta are not so hierarchical.

The transfer route of Hong Kong New Airport is not far away. The transfer gate is crowded and you need to pass through the automatic gate. After your passport and profile picture are matched by the computer and your identity is verified, you will be allowed to board the plane through facial recognition at the boarding gate. It's a very special system that I haven't seen in other airports.

The flight from Hong Kong to Shanghai was only half occupied, and it arrived in Shanghai very quickly.

This is the last period of epidemic control, and PCR testing is required for boarding. Canada has gone south. There are only a few designated laboratories that provide PCR tests for travel needs. It takes a two-hour drive to get a nose test. The epidemic has not poked me in the nose for three years, and in the end I still did not escape. Entry requires test results within 48 hours, but if the card’s last flight time to enter China is taken into account, including the departure time from Canada and the transoceanic flight time, plus the time difference between day and night, it is impossible to catch up, so I have to bite the bullet.

The result is that no one cares at all. When I arrived at Shanghai Pudong Airport, no one looked at me.

Anyway, I am back in Shanghai after a long absence. There are also old friends who come to pick me up at the airport. What more can I ask for?

When I got home, my mother was excited for 5 minutes, then got tired and had nothing to say. In fact, the elderly are like this. They want to see their children by their side, but when it comes to talking, they firstly lack energy, and secondly, they don’t have much to say. I usually call every week and almost everything I want to say has been said.

’s home is still the same, but after three years of absence, Shanghai has changed again.

In fact, Nanjing Road, Huaihai Road, Xujiahui, and Chenghuang Temple have all been finalized and will not change much. However, Shanghai is far beyond these familiar landmarks.

The most famous landmark in Shanghai is undoubtedly the Bund, but traditionally the Bund is the section from Waibaidu Bridge to the Observatory. It’s different now. The North Bund, South Bund, Xuhui Riverside and Yangpu Riverside have all become Shanghai’s new landmarks. The Huangpu River also seems to be wider.

Of course, the Huangpu River has not become wider, but in the past, dark factories and wharves pressed against the river, and no matter how densely packed barges and fishing boats were parked on the shore, the river really didn't look that wide.

Now, the green space along the river has been opened up, and the high-rise buildings have retreated to a certain distance from the river. Visually, the river is much wider. In Shanghai, where it is easy to feel cramped, such a sense of relaxation is rare. High-rise residences along the river that enjoy such extensive water views have certainly become the tallest buildings in Shanghai. At that time, there was a saying of "Shangzhijiao and Xiazhijiao". These new Bunds were all unfashionable places, but now they surpass "Shangzhijiao" and can only be compared with the old-fashioned single-family garden houses in the concession back then.

Shanghai Bund (Picture source: Oriental ic)

The important thing is that these new Bunds are not the back gardens of the rich, but a good place for ordinary citizens to relax. From the Yangpu Riverside to the Xuhui Riverside, the dozens of kilometers of riverside green belt have become the favorites of old and new Shanghainese. There are people walking their dogs, some walking their children, and most of them walking themselves; some are singing, some are playing ball, and most of them are staring at the river in a daze. Everyone is being optimistic, comfortable and confident themselves.

also met a group of cosplay girls, wearing strange costumes, applying strange make-up, speaking strange words, and looking very ostentatious. It seemed to be some sort of event, with people crowding around to take photos, intercept vehicles, and make it easier for people to pass by. There were also many people watching. I stopped and looked at it for a few minutes, but didn't understand it, so I walked away.

There are also many people bringing tents and picnic kits to camp here. This is completely contrary to the common perception of camping in the world. Among the bustling and noisy tourists, a small tent with just enough space for changing clothes was set up on the grass in the small park, a pile of food was placed, some even brought music, and bonfires were set up on the barren mountains, rivers, beaches and seaside, and people were surrounded by the sound of the waves. It’s so different to count the stars in the silence and watch the sunset amidst the crashing waves. But fun is fun, and having fun is the most important thing.

Here I met some old people who have lived nearby for generations, more newcomers who have come to Shanghai to work hard in recent years, and foreigners who were jogging and chatting up. Here, everyone is a Shanghainese.

In Western public opinion, we continue to see claims that China has reached its peak of development. The claims that China’s economy is in recession, employment is sluggish, and consumption is downgraded are also deeply rooted in the hearts of the people. However, in the New Bund, what we see is still vitality and hope.

The New Bund certainly makes full use of the river views and greenery, with extensive landscaping. Chinese gardens are inherently good at landscaping, and Suzhou gardens create a wonderful world in a few steps of screw shells. The New Bund is not that extreme. It is also based on the concept of modern gardens, and it often borrows views from ultra-modern steel-framed glass buildings and rainbow-like steel bridges.

What needs to be praised is that the New Bund did not blindly pile up ultra-modern elements, nor did it demolish the original site, but integrated the original industrial culture very well. Yangshupu Waterworks was once the most important waterworks in Shanghai. There is a mark of 1883 on the building, which should be the year when the plant was built.

Yangshupu Water Plant

The gray and red brick walls are very distinctive. In fact, they should be regarded as Japanese-style and Western-style, not "authentic European and American" styles. They are also common in Hongkou and Taipei. The water plant continues to provide tap water to the public, and "industrial relics" such as pipes and valves can be seen from time to time on the riverside walk. Some are still in use, and some are reserved for garden sketches. I heard that the night view is particularly beautiful, so I’ll save it for next time.

Here on the Xuhui Riverside, the big cranes from those days have become the most conspicuous steel sculptures, and there are also some old factory buildings with only their skeletons remaining, where they chat silently with the river flowing under their feet. There is always endless talk between old friends. if.

Just as "Flowers" was on the air, the Shanghai version was particularly popular, but it also sparked debate over whether it truly reflected Shanghai in the 1990s. Whether Shanghai in the 1990s was wonderful or not, what is really wonderful is Shanghai in the 21st century. Nothing can better reflect the wonderfulness of Shanghai in the 21st century than dozens of miles of riverside.

But "Flowers" shows that Shanghainese people love nostalgia, and Shanghai does have a lot of nostalgia for the past. Tianzifang, Duolun Road Cultural Street, and the French Concession are places where nostalgic people like to check in, but Zhangyuan may be a place for "new nostalgia". It used to be an old-fashioned Shikumen house, but now it has been completely renovated, retaining the charm of Shikumen while incorporating modern elements. In the eyes of germaphobes, this may be "unauthentic", but it just illustrates the vitality of Shanghai: rooted in history, embracing the present, and looking to the future.

There are a few other "new and nostalgic" places like Wujin Road, Shenyuli, and of course the well-known Xintiandi. The old factory, which was once the slaughterhouse of the Ministry of Industry and Commerce, has now become a trendy place. The brutalist architectural style that is rare on the beach in Shanghai is really unique.

New-style neighborhoods are not far behind. The ultra-modern Raffles City on the North Bund even has an "old street" on the underground floor. There is also an "old street" with almost the same meaning underground at Pudong Century Hui, which recreates the retro-style old alley food street. Restoring the cityscape of old Shanghai is of course “pseudo-nostalgic”.

The return journey was transited in Haneda, Tokyo. The inefficiency of customs clearance was breathtaking, and the row of elderly airport security personnel was also a sight to behold.

When I went to Shanghai for the second time, I took a detour. I stopped in Amsterdam on the way to Shanghai and took Taipei on the way back.

It was the turn of spring and summer when I came here. The morning in Amsterdam was really dirty. Paper scraps and rotten vegetable peels were piled beside the quiet and elegant canal. People in a hurry and well-dressed turned a blind eye. It was very inconsistent. It's probably because the sanitation department hasn't been dispatched yet in the morning, but we can't just throw them away like this. I didn't have this impression when I went to Amsterdam before. It's probably not the tourist season yet, so the Anne Frank Museum is accessible as you go, while the gay monument beside the canal behind has only a few scattered withered flowers.

It’s the turn of summer and autumn when I go back. Air ticket prices are not as crazy as before, but they are still very high. It’s much cheaper to go to Taipei. I’ve never been to Taiwan, so the price difference can be used to spend a few days in Taiwan.

Taipei does not need to be nostalgic, Taipei is old.

Taipei’s old neighborhoods

Shanghai’s urban architecture can be simply divided into those before the 1930s and those after the 1990s. Most of the buildings before the 1930s became protected buildings, and their current state after renovation may be even more glorious than when they were newly built. New buildings after the 1990s (especially in the 21st century) naturally shine and swagger across the city with pride. Of course there are a lot of buildings in the middle, but they seem to be ashamed of themselves and retreat into the background in disgrace, willing to ignore everyone.

Taipei is different. Taipei's urban architecture can also be simply divided into the Japanese occupation era and others. However, except for landmark buildings such as the Governor's Mansion, museums, and Qunye Bank, the architecture in Taipei during the Japanese occupation period is still a bit small and inferior compared to Hongkou. The buildings in other eras are even more embarrassing to see, and the large number of blocks are reminiscent of the 1970s. of Shanghai.

Traditional bustling markets such as Ximending and Ningxia Street Night Market give people a sense of local luxury in the county, and are bustling and crowded. Braised meat, grilled squid, and beef noodles are so popular that there are actually long queues at the milk tea shop. But when it comes to Xiaolongbao being a famous snack in Taipei, Shanghainese people jump up. Nanxiang is also from Shanghai. What must be praised is that although the trash can (called "Le Se" by Taiwanese) is difficult to find, there are no littered paper scraps, paper cups, or barbecue bamboo sticks on the ground.

The streets of Taipei are full of Chinese flavor, and it is still the old flavor that has been lost for a long time - the flavor of old Shanghai before the big demolition and construction. The places that Taipei people are most proud of are full of Chinese elements. Needless to say, the National Palace Museum, the Grand Hotel is also full of Chinese style, the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall imitates Sun Yat-sen Mausoleum in Nanjing, and the Taipei Railway Station has a large roof shape.The most modern Taipei 101 is said to use the artistic conception of elevated bamboo joints, the image of gold and silver chests, auspicious clouds and the symbols of ancient coins to create "a pagoda leading to the new century in Chinese architecture." When it was completed in 2004, it was said to be the tallest building in Greater China. Of course, it will not be ranked 20 years later.

Taxi drivers in Taipei, like their counterparts around the world, are very talkative and willing to talk about cross-strait affairs, but their thinking still falls on "Taiwan has beauties, and China has macho men. A macho man must use sweet words to chase a beautiful woman, so how can he threaten to use force?" level. In fact, Taiwan is more like a son who has turned against his father. Even though the quarrel is fierce, wherever he goes, people say: "Ah, at a glance, he is so-and-so's son."

And this guy is a little confused. Some of the name signs of stores and institutions are written from left to right, and some are written from right to left, which makes me often have to read it several times to determine which one it is.

No wonder Europeans and Americans like Taiwan, because here they can find what they think China should be like. When you go to Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, or Wuhan, Xi'an, Hangzhou, or Xiamen, you always have to wonder: Is this still China? Who got the wrong script? Another endearing thing about Taiwan is that people have a comfortable and contented mentality. They are content with being a little rich. They don't have the anxiety of being expelled if they don't catch up with the number one player in the world, and they don't make Europeans and Americans gasp for breath if they don't catch up.

In Taiwan, I also went to Jiufen and Taroko. Jiufen is a small town next to Keelung. It is said to be the inspiration for Hayao Miyazaki's "Spirited Away". It is more primitive than Taipei. It's a very friendly town on the seaside and in the mountains, but it has nothing to do with modernity, otherwise it wouldn't be the inspiration for the somewhat ghostly "Spirited Away". It happened to be the weekend, and the town was crowded with tourists. The girl in the store was smiling, but she was friendly and made money. She did not chase tourists to "pass by and don't miss it."

Jiufen Old Street

Taroko is a spectacular granite canyon in the Central Mountains near Hualien. The place name comes from the indigenous people and means big and strong. It was really not easy to open the Zhongheng Highway back then, but compared with the Canadian Rockies or the mountains and dangerous roads and high bridges in Hunan and Guizhou, it can only be regarded as Xiaojiabiyu. When I was in Hualien, before I left the train station, I heard eight fighter jets roaring past at low altitude. They were dispatched from the nearby Jiashan Base or Hualien Base. It was unclear whether they were training flights or emergency dispatches. During this period, a large number of PLA combat aircraft flew across the central line of the Taiwan Strait and around the island to conduct routine training.

When I returned to Canada, a familiar feeling immediately hit me. In short, I have been away for a few months, which means I have been away for a few years. Except for the changes in the calendar and seasons, nothing else has changed. If life in Shanghai is like a fast-flowing river, life in Canada is like a glacier that is as motionless as a mountain. In fact, it is still flowing, but it is so slow that you can't even notice it.

is slow and has the advantage of being slow and full of stability. You can either be stably satisfied and enjoy yourself day after day; you can also be stably anxious and complain about the same things day after day.

But what Europeans and Americans are most anxious about now is: Why hasn’t China stopped so that Europe and the United States can enjoy the remaining sense of superiority with peace of mind.

The most anxious thing for the Chinese people is: why is it not the first in the world? The world with only China and foreign countries really can't wait.

For me, the road back to Shanghai will be smooth again next time, so I won’t be anxious anymore.

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