Fujian | Twelve-year dream of the big fish and begonia, waking up from the cracks in the bricks and tiles of a century-old earth building

My hand-written note: Intentionally explore the "daily life aesthetics"

"Big Fish and Begonia" This is based on "Zhuangzi·Xiaoyaoyou"

The story background is derived from the well-known ancient myth "Nuwa Patching the Sky"

plot blends "mountain sea" The Chinese version of the cartoon

of "Jing" and "Daughter of the Sea" is copied and moved in the historical Hakka earth building

. These unique architectural and cultural heritages in Longyan City, Fujian Province

"Miyazaki Hayao style" romantic and beautiful painting style is vivid and vivid. The interpretation of the strong Hakka style

perfectly restores the true story of Yongding Hakka Tulou in the plot. At the same time that the blockbuster came back in 12 years,

also tells us not to ignore the mystery of Yongding Tulou


Yongding Tulou

Those who have a little knowledge of traditional Chinese architecture, it is not difficult to know the unique architectural features of Shanju Tulou: safety, defense, ventilation and lighting , Anti-seismic, fire-proof, moisture-proof and thermal insulation, sound insulation, warm in winter and cool in summer, reasonable functional zoning layout, the ancestors even absorbed the "feng shui" concept of traditional Chinese architectural planning. Reasonable functional zoning layout to achieve the group living requirements of the entire family life .

Tulou is located in the mountainous area of ​​southwestern Fujian. The terrain is steep, sparsely populated, traffic blocked, once beasts are infested, and bandits are everywhere. How to use the local building materials and have strong defense functions is the most important survival test. The Hakkas are smart and clever. The use of the narrow flat land in the mountains and the local raw soil, wood, pebbles and other building materials, as well as the raw soil ramming technology of the Central Plains, has allowed these eco-efficient, strong, and beautiful raw soil high-rise buildings to remain until today. In the picture, we should not only feel the deep sense of history, but also must not sigh the magic of the settlement environment and the unique Hakka cultural connotation. The birth of

Tulou is inseparable from the history of the migration of the Han people from the Western Jin Dynasty to the Ming and Qing Dynasties in the Central Plains. According to related investigations, Yongding Tulou was born in the Song and Yuan Dynasties and matured in the late Ming and Qing Dynasties and the Republic of China. It was located in Yongding over 2,200 square kilometers. On the land, there are more than 20,000 earth buildings, including nearly 5,000 large buildings with three floors or more, and more than 360 round buildings.

These tall and majestic earth buildings with various facades, different shapes and large and majestic squares, based on natural villages, are scattered and harmoniously integrated with the blue sky, the land, the green mountains and the green water, creating a peculiar landscape of "destroying the soul". . At present, the more representative earth buildings are mainly concentrated in Gaobei Tulou Group, Hongkeng Tulou Group, Nanxi Tulougou, Zhongchuan Ancient Villages and Chuxi Tulou Group, which are also the scenic spots that the editor focuses on.


Gaobei Tulou Group

Yongding’s largest tulou group is located at

Gaobei Tulou Group, backed by the lush Jinshan, Gaotou River passes from east to west in front of the village, with mountains and water on its back, and a good Feng Shui pattern. In the tulou group, the Chengqi Building, known as the "king of Tulou", can be regarded as the best tulou in Fujian in terms of form and scale! A jingle that is widely spread in Hakkas, "Four stories high, four circles inside, four hundred up and down; the circle is in the circle, the circle is round, and it has gone through the Cangsang for hundreds of years; the building is in the middle of the building, with a population of nearly 1,000. "This is the Chengqi Building, which is also the home of the heroine Chun in the film. The Qiaofu Building on the side was built in 1962 by overseas Chinese capital. It is the youngest brother in the Tulou group.

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"Tulou King" Chengqi Building

Chengqi Building is where the heroine Chun's family lives in "Big Fish and Begonia". The Chengqi Building is a typical round building. Its door connection is "inheriting the predecessor's Deloitte and thrifty, and the future generations to read and cultivate." According to legend, during the construction process, all the time for ramming the wall is sunny, until the water is discharged from the wall. It is raining genius, and the people of Chengqi Building feel that God is helping each other, so Chengqi Building is also called "Tianzhu Building". In the building, there is a pair of couplets: "One is born in one, there is not much closeness, why do you need to separate you and me; living in a shared building, coming and going, it is best to pay attention to human relations." The description is exactly the harmony and harmony of people on the first floor. Moving scene.

This is a scene in the Chengqi Building. In the middle of the Tulou is usually the ancestral hall, because the Hakka as a member of the Han nationality has a tradition of respecting ancestors. The equal settlement style of Chengqi Building is an example of Hakka people living together. The couplet in the hall is the mostGood explanation: If you are born in one school, you don’t have much closeness, why not separate you and me; living in a shared building, coming in and out, it’s best to emphasize legal personality.

If you can only see one tulou, then this choice is not "Chengqilou". Chengqi Building is the round building with the largest number of circles. It consists of four concentric round buildings surrounded by rings, and is a typical interior corridor-style round building. The layout of the whole building echoes the Taiji, Liangyi, Sanyuan, Sixiang, Bagua, and 64 hexagrams of the innate sixty-four hexagrams in the Book of Changes. Entering the building is like entering a labyrinth, which is indistinguishable from the southeast, northwest.

Chengqi Building is permeated with a strong atmosphere of rural life, and is even hailed as a "family city" by Japanese scholars. It is said that in its heyday, Chengqi Building once lived in more than 80 households with a total of more than 600 people, all of whom were of the same ethnic group. Even today with the great development of tourism, this place has not been swallowed up by tourism. The rooms in the building are still inhabited and used by locals and are called "living historical heritage".

Walking slowly brick by brick here, stroking the fence of the fence, the Chengqi Building, which took half a century to build, has also experienced many trials and hardships, and it does carry too many historical stories and accumulations.

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Qiaofu Building

Qiaofu Building was built in 1962. It was funded by the landlord’s overseas brothers. One floor is built every year and completed in three years. The diameter is 45 meters, the height is 3 floors, and the corridor is inside. This building is famous all over the world because of the 11 Ph.Ds. It is also known as Dr. Tulou. Can be described as the youngest brother in Gaobei Tulou group.

Yongding is rich in tobacco leaves, and the "homemade cigarettes" of Tulou has become a relatively special local scenery. For smokers, this has to be said to be a gospel.

Gaobei Village is certainly famous for the two famous buildings of "Chengqi Building" and "Qiaofu Building", but the village scenery of Gaobei Village is still worth exploring.

Gaobei Village is not like a town, with clean streets. The gray-yellow walls and mottled gravel roads in the village seem to be "rusty in the earth" to outsiders. But without the hustle and bustle of the city, without the visual interference of urban reinforced concrete, what Tulou Village brings to everyone is absolutely pure visual aesthetic enjoyment.


Hongkeng Tulou Group

Jiang Wen's "One Step Away" location:

There is an interesting anecdote about the discovery of Tulou: more than ten years ago, Americans discovered from photos taken back by spy satellites that there are in the mountainous area at the junction of Fujian, Guangdong and Jiangxi Many circular buildings. They don't understand what these circular buildings are. According to military experts' analysis, they are very much like nuclear reactors. This alarmed the officials of the White House and the Pentagon! They sent nuclear experts, dressed as tourists, to visit Yongding County in western Fujian under the pretext of tourism. They discovered that they were huge earth buildings built by Hakkas during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Americans are amazed at the architectural art and use functions of these earth buildings, and they think this is another miracle in the history of ancient Chinese architecture. Some people even think it can be comparable to the Great Wall! After returning to the United States, they advertised that Hakka Tulou, which was not well known in China, became famous overseas. The American propaganda has attracted the attention of our Chinese compatriots. The cultural and cultural departments of Fujian, Guangdong, and Jiangxi have organized field trips by experts and scholars in the fields of history, culture, architecture, and folklore. After in-depth research, they discovered that there are still such shining treasures hidden in such mountainous areas. Zhencheng Building

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Zhencheng Building "Prince of Tulou"

Zhencheng Building, known as the "Prince of Tulou", has a layout design with the imprint of Suzhou gardens and the characteristics of ancient Greek architecture. It can be called a combination of Chinese and Western architecture. In 1995, its architectural model and the Temple of Heaven in Beijing participated in the "World Architecture Exhibition in Los Angeles, USA" as the representative of China's north-south circular architecture, which caused a sensation and was known as the "Pearl of Oriental Architecture".

Perhaps, in everyone’s impression, the Tulou is just a world heritage for "seeing". However, I would like to say that the true and correct way to open Tulou should be used to "live", which is also the original intention of their design. Locals say that the tulou was managed by people because it was inhabited, and it can last for hundreds of years. Many people go to the empty Tulou, but in the end they cannot escape the doom of collapse. "Zhencheng Building" is such a world cultural heritage that is open to tourists and can be used by tourists.The editor is looking forward to feeling the night of the Lower Tulou.

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Kuiju Building

There is a temple in my house, and there is also a big theater building

The small Kuiju building is not large in scale, but it took nearly five years to build it. The so-called "Sparrow is small but has all five internal organs", the small Kuiju Building is a collection of many traditional buildings, including an ancestral hall and a theater. Looking from a height, it looks like a mountain temple complex has lived in the Tulou home. Therefore, it is not an exaggeration to say that "I have a temple in my house and a big theater".

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Fuyu Building

The representative of the "FuDi" Tulou

Fuyu Building has a large scale and high level of form. In my opinion, it is very similar to the Fujian Tulou version of Shanxi Huangcheng Xiangfu and Qiao Family Courtyard. It is said that the building cost more than 100,000 Guangyang and it took three years to complete.

walked into the Tulou, the hall was completely furnished in the northern Han style. The shape of the whole building is very special, like three mountains, implying the meaning of "three mountains" by the three brothers of the host.


Hongkeng Village

Hongkeng Village is built by the river, with a big banyan tree at the entrance of the village, and a pond, which has an excellent Feng Shui pattern. There is also a Tianhou Palace at the entrance of the village

, quietly standing there, mysterious and simple.

Hongkeng Village has an excellent view of the village. Streams and rivers pass through the village. The village is built on both sides of the river. The large and small, round and round earth buildings along the bank form a unique landscape.

Strolling in Hongkeng Village, from time to time, you can find breathtaking rural scenes: either the life-like scene in the earth building, the earth building set up with the stream at the village head, or the withered private school in the village. Between ruined walls and gullies, you can always find a place that touches you.


Nanxi Tulougou

might as well go to the observation tower of Jiaotang Village to look at the Tulougou Great Wall. The best view of Nanxi Tulougou should be obtained from the air. This should be the correct way to open it. Nanxi, originally a small stream in Hukeng Town. The countercurrent from Hukeng Town runs through the villages of Xiananxi, Xinnan, Nanzhong, Nanjiang and Shijia. A mountain bag in Jiaotang Natural Village can be said to be the best viewpoint overlooking Tulougou.

climbed onto a viewing platform on a mountain bag in Jiaotang Natural Village. Looking around, I saw Yoyo Nanxi passing through a narrow valley with gurgling streams, green hills and terraces. On both sides of the Nanxi River, there are more than 100 earth buildings of different shapes, such as round, square, octagonal, hexagonal, triangular, D-shaped, elliptical, round front and rear, large or small, or tall or Low, gathering or scattered, inlaid in the terraced valleys, on the crooked river bank, like a rushing dragon, winding for more than ten kilometers, it is magnificent.

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Huanjilou

is named "Huanjilou". There is a saying that: Polaris is also called Beichen Star. It has a subordinate position to the midday, and it is the lord of all stars in the celestial body. Someone wrote a poem saying: "When there is water, it will go east, and all stars will not go north", which means that the stars revolve around the north pole. This building sits on the seat of Beirenzi to Bingwu, so it is named "Huanji Tower"; there is also a saying that: ring means circle, "circle (ring)" is auspicious word, "huanji" means wishing it auspicious (Good circle) Extremely. The

ring pole building is known for its seismic resistance. The building body once cracked a huge crack due to the earthquake, but due to the centripetal force of the round building and the traction of the structure, the cracks miraculously closed slowly, leaving only a small trace. There is another special feature of Huanji Tower: there is no ancestral hall in the center of the building, but an empty courtyard. This is unique among the many earth buildings in Yongding. This is unbelievable in the feudal society that emphasizes courtesy and follow the outline, and is also called the "disobedience building". I don't know what kind of story it was that gave this family such a creative and rebellious spirit.

If you only look at the Tulou, and hurriedly miss out on a different kind of rural life picture, then the gain will not be worth the loss. Kengnanjiang Village can be described as a beautiful village in the Tulou ditch. The village is located between the ravines of the green hills, and Xihe is accompanied by the village. The 23 earthen buildings, the "daughter forest" and the terraced fields arranged among the mountains have witnessed the village's more than 400 years of history. The scene in Jiang Wen's "One Step Away" was filmed here when the handsome drove after his daughter.

Feng Shui is extremely important to the Hakka people. At the entrance of Nanjiang Village, we can also see the Tin Hau Temple built by the stream. The scene described by Taiwanese folk singer Wang Menglin in the "Temple Fair" "red candles burning with sandalwood, the Buddha is full of incense; praying for a good winter harvest and peace for the wanderers" is well commented here.


Zhongchuan Ancient Village

The famous hometown of overseas Chinese

Zhongchuan Ancient Village is located in Xiayang Town, Yongding. It is the hometown of Hu Wenhu, a famous overseas Chinese entrepreneur, newspaperman and philanthropist in Southeast Asia. The famous Tiger Balm brand was created by Hu Wenhu. The "Haw Leopard Villa" in the village is one of the three villas built by Hu Wenhu before his death (the other two are in Singapore and Hong Kong), and it has been listed as a heritage protection unit.

Linshui Old Street is the essence of Zhongchuan Ancient Village. Walking in the alleys, you are full of authentic ancient buildings. The houses here are mainly earth buildings, either square or round, or high or low. A sense of simplicity is oncoming. The core of

village is an ancestral hall. It can be said that the strong Hakka culture is condensed in this small ancestral hall. In Zhongchuan Village, there is a peculiar phenomenon, that is, there are several times more overseas Chinese than there are in the hometown. Currently, there are more than 3,000 villagers in Zhongchuan Village, and there are about 15,000 overseas Chinese living overseas. The Hu Wenhu Memorial Hall, Tiger Leopard Tower, Hu Family Temple, and Zhongchuan Ancient Streets in the village attract tourists from all over the world.

might as well try cycling to browse the village, along the way, the Haw and Leopard Archway, Hu Wenhu Memorial Hall, Haw and Leopard Tower, Hu Family Temple, Zhongchuan Ancient Streets, celebrities' former residences, Fu Zilou (a rich word from a high altitude), Zhongchuan Culture Exhibition Hall Rongchang Building (also a museum), Tangzi Pavilion Scenic Area. The ancient village of Zhongchuan Village is a good place to shoot humanities. Walking in the streets of the ancient villages in the architectural style of the late Qing Dynasty and the early Ming Dynasty, it seems like going back in time, with the original ecology


Chuxi Tulou group

terraced field scenery

First sight of Chuxi, Everything seems like a world away, and the tulou group is built along the river in accordance with the terrain. This sharp contrast between dry and wet reaches its extreme in Chuxi and is very spectacular. The undulating terraces beside the tulou group are also breathtakingly beautiful. If it coincides with the golden autumn season, the mountains are covered with gold, and the terraces are like golden steps. The boundless golden color embraces the rich fragrance of rice rushing to you, making you indulge in a dazzling golden color, and your heart rises and falls with the waves of rice.

Chuxi Tulou Group consists of five round buildings and dozens of square buildings, among which the more famous ones are: Jiqing Building (it has been built for more than 600 years, the oldest existing Tulou, and it is also a very rich museum), Shanqing Building and Jishan Building. If the Zhencheng Buildings of the Hongkeng Tulou Group are compared to the romantic and suave young talents of the upper class, then the Jiqing Building of the Chuxi Tulou is full of rustic and weather-beaten old people. It has been hidden in the high mountains and has gone through nearly six hundred years. The wind, frost, rain and snow, if it were not for a successful application, would have been almost forgotten by the world. Jiqing Building: Built in the 17th year of Yongle in the Ming Dynasty, more than 580 years ago, each household installed stairs from the first floor to the fourth floor. The buildings were all connected by falcon heads, and they still stand upright today. Every household has stairs. As a large round building that lives in groups, it is unique, and the earth building is unique! It has also achieved a unique reputation for the Tulou with the most stairs.

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Jiqing Building

Yongding Tulou is the oldest and most unique

Jiqing Building is a national key cultural relics protection unit. It is the oldest (built in 1419) and the most special structure (72 stairs) in Yongding. The wooden structure of the whole building does not need a single iron nail, and it has experienced nearly 600 years of wind, frost, snow and rain together with the raw soil wall nearly 2 meters thick.

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Yu Qinglou

Tulou for tourists

For tourists who come to Chuxi, if the time is not so tight, it is recommended to stay at Chuxi for one night and choose Yuqing Building near the river to live in the river at night. Fall asleep. Like other habitable earth buildings, Yu Qing Building can be regarded as VIP treatment, and independent toilets are difficult to find in other earth buildings.

Yongding Hakka Tulou has a history of hundreds of years. These hundreds of years of wind and rain have created a heavy and long culture like Tulou, and the marginal mountainous area with inconvenient transportation, allowing these cultural stories and historical heritage to quietly flow to this day. positiveFor example, director Tidus of "Big Fish and Begonia" said, "China's Fujian Tulou has a dream-like mystery, as if it came from a paradise." It is worthy of careful interpretation.


Travel Tips

Yongding Hakka Tulou is an endless encyclopedia. Today, the Yongding Tulou still retains the unique Central Plains heritage, condensing a strong rustic flavor. If you have a preference for ancient architecture, it is indeed worthy of your "investigation". Major travel agencies across the country provide value-for-money Xiamen and Tulou double flights. For the tour itinerary, almost all local hotels and business hotels in Xiamen can sign up for a one-day tour of Longyan Yongding Tulou. If you don’t want to parade in a hurry, tourists who don’t want to join the group can arrange a quiet stay for 2 to 3 days.

Recommended itinerary (2~3 days)

Hongkeng Tulou Group-Gaobei Tulou Group-Nanxi Tulou Group-Chuxi Tulou Group-Zhongchuan Ancient Village (2-3 days)

Tulou is suitable all year round If you go to traditional festivals such as the Spring Festival and the International Tourism Day on the 519th, you may encounter many lively folk activities, such as getting married, walking the ancient events on the fourteenth and fifteenth day of the first lunar month.

HD picture ⬇️can be clicked to open and save⬇️

scenic spot ticket reference

Hongkeng Scenic Area (Tulou Prince Zhencheng Building) 90 yuan/person

Gaobei Scenic Area (Tulou Wang Chengqi Building) 50 yuan/person

Nanxi Scenic Area (Nanxi Tulou) Princess) 50 yuan/person

Chuxi Scenic Area (Jiqing Building) 70 yuan/person

Zhongchuan Scenic Area (Hubao Villa) 30 yuan/person

hot spring bath

In addition to admiring the earth building, hot springs are also a leisure activity that will never be missed. Watching the sky full of dreamy stars on the hot spring pool platform, in addition to three high and low temperature baths and hot spring swimming pools (two adult pools + children's pool), there are also steam rooms and hydromassage pools! Tickets currently only cost 30 yuan per person! No matter spring, summer, autumn or winter, the night temperature in this town is very suitable for hot springs. If you want to eat

gourmet

, ​​you can contact the host and have a meal with them. The average cost is about 10 yuan per meal. Of course, you can also choose a hotel with authentic Hakka cuisine.

is a specialty snack that I missed.

is a must-see in western Fujian’s Xiayang beef balls and beef tendon balls, and a Hakka snack that has a history of hundreds of years. It has a good wish of "eat taro buns and make money with silver bags and gold buns". Delicious taro buns, original local unique Xiayang soaked duck claws, Hakka rice wine that can prevent arthritis, wind pain, low back pain and other diseases, and gradually domesticated and cultivated after dozens of generations of persimmons for more than 500 years Persimmon products (persimmon cakes, persimmon wine, dried persimmons, persimmon paste, etc.) are selected from the green, the fruit is bright red and the appearance is bright red, the tender meat juice is thick and sweet as filling, sweet and refreshing. ", exquisitely made, fine, fragrant, delicious and delicious Yongding dried vegetables, golden color, translucent, famous for its tenderness and crispness. It was once a tribute to Shangjing in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. The clear stream of dried bamboo shoots

high-definition picture ⬇️ can be opened and preserved ⬇️

Traffic Tips

Yongding Tulou is located in a village, and the traffic is relatively troublesome and cannot be compared with the convenience of the city, so it will take some time to travel.

traffic update (thanks to the aboriginal friends for the latest information)/cute

1. There are shuttle buses to Longyan city at every station in Xiamen, and there are also many private charter services that buy parking spaces on demand;

2, for trains, Shenzhen has There is no direct train, and if you need to depart from Guangzhou East:

3 and high-speed trains, there will be two direct trains from Shenzhen to Longyan every day. You can also choose to go to Xiamen first and then transfer to Longyan (there are more buses from Xiamen);

4. The private chartered service of buying a parking space on the go to Yongding County or Xiayang, there is also a shuttle bus to Gaotou and Hukeng;


graphic materials, reference articles and literature:

v tour Fujian "12 years of tempering, view the pinnacle of domestic animation in Yongding Tulou Works"

Liao Dong "Interpretation of the History and Architecture of Tulou Fujian Tulou"

The pictures are all from the network

Finally, thanks for the thoughtful tips provided by Yongding Tulou National Treasure International Youth Hostel!